But I did find a few things I'd check out next time.
Magnaura Tours. Unusual tours: neighborhoods, schools, markets
www.magnauratours.com Didn't use them, but it sounds interesting.
HOTELS:
Galata looked like the most interesting area to stay, but there are not a lot of options.
I saw 2 new ones--I'd stay in one of these next time.
World House www.worldhouseistanbul.com
FOOD:
Great old interior: Neoclassic, Istiklal Cad. 251, upstairs
Sirit Seref, www.serefburyan.com You'll need help finding this--it's near the Bozdogan aqueduct and the Fire Brigade Museum. The pilaf thing in a crust is great. Wander around this area after lunch, very interesting Kurdish neighborhood, no tourists.
In Beyoglu try Antiocha, Minare Sokak 21/A, Tel. 212 292 1100.
In Beyoglu try Antiocha, Minare Sokak 21/A, Tel. 212 292 1100.
I loved the old pudding houses you see all over.
MISC:
Lale Plak, CD store with great selection of classical music--right at the top of the hill where the train stops