tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22748198274577316162024-03-12T19:54:51.362-06:00Live On ArrivalComments from all over the map
by Jim JohnstonThe Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-49914501394902188522020-03-03T11:20:00.000-06:002020-03-03T11:20:03.348-06:00INSTAGRAM<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cun_H9iFPWCuhtVODgLuK6NFvCNWeFqOkk7H4Y6NOi-9zawX_sXVDHuif8Hgha3PtRvamBIE2wdpBV_RWUN3FsnYUzv63AmQHmiXtPkdEWeif6DH4IR1uVnn2eeytKhiKsjbkU32fmM/s1600/IMG-1534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cun_H9iFPWCuhtVODgLuK6NFvCNWeFqOkk7H4Y6NOi-9zawX_sXVDHuif8Hgha3PtRvamBIE2wdpBV_RWUN3FsnYUzv63AmQHmiXtPkdEWeif6DH4IR1uVnn2eeytKhiKsjbkU32fmM/s640/IMG-1534.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
I have a new Instagram account devoted to my travels in India. Take a look here:<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">jim_in_india</span></b>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-47622886793156098032017-06-26T10:09:00.003-05:002017-06-26T10:09:54.756-05:00DELHI, February 2017, Photos<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">DELHI 2017 Facebook posts:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Havelis: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212290488321854">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212290488321854</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Video: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/videos/10212297132327950/">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/videos/10212297132327950/</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Photo: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212297166848813">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212297166848813</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Wedding: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212297127807837">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212297127807837</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Photo: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246241175703">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246241175703</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Photo: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246247175853">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246247175853</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Sadar1: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246625025299">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246625025299</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Sadar2: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246696627089">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212246696627089</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Mehrauli: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212272706357316">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212272706357316</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Villages: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212279740693170">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212279740693170</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Alleys: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212290417800091">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212290417800091</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Deco: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212237597199609">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212237597199609</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Photo: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212237617920127">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212237617920127</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">NightVideo:<a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/videos/10212239485926826/">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/videos/10212239485926826/</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Kinari:<a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212212086401855">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212212086401855</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">OldDelhi: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212224032540501">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212224032540501</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Wedding: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212213470636460">https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/posts/10212213470636460</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>ES-TRAD</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Tabla normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">AES:<a href="https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1759922837669329&id=1382521055409511">https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1759922837669329&id=1382521055409511</a><a href="https://www.facebook.com/JPJMexico/videos/10212239485926826/"></a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-69388784921229412302017-01-30T16:39:00.003-06:002017-01-31T14:34:51.256-06:00Dhaka, Bangladesh <style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
mso-themecolor:hyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
mso-themecolor:followedhyperlink;
text-decoration:underline;
text-underline:single;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:595.0pt 842.0pt;
margin:70.85pt 3.0cm 70.85pt 3.0cm;
mso-header-margin:35.4pt;
mso-footer-margin:35.4pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 16.0pt;"> DHAKA, BANGLADESH (Nov./Dec. 2016)</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL1Hm_sJoBRTcAf32Pn5_He7Q7vuuJcuWPp_M48n9l2QmubGRRMAkwMf5bx795v1gBj5YCjd5u0RlRIIvMHSWkqtQMzxd2U69g-3triKIN7oZrf3zzHZL_M8C2u4iOkr8JMMeSejZH2IM/s1600/IMG_6382.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL1Hm_sJoBRTcAf32Pn5_He7Q7vuuJcuWPp_M48n9l2QmubGRRMAkwMf5bx795v1gBj5YCjd5u0RlRIIvMHSWkqtQMzxd2U69g-3triKIN7oZrf3zzHZL_M8C2u4iOkr8JMMeSejZH2IM/s640/IMG_6382.jpg" width="480" /></a></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Dhaka from the above <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgiKF0JqPO2n3Jy8gh0iQ1GJOwWDwvt4e1_NB8mEQJoZuE_YdLnpCH5YlhyphenhyphenmxtljclX-f3NJcSjZ0TNm8c6GztgD9U7E3nPgx0kMBQBDxYIEssjuQ2ca69r_b2dYfaWgPXZUyMbDt4gUU/s1600/IMG_6027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgiKF0JqPO2n3Jy8gh0iQ1GJOwWDwvt4e1_NB8mEQJoZuE_YdLnpCH5YlhyphenhyphenmxtljclX-f3NJcSjZ0TNm8c6GztgD9U7E3nPgx0kMBQBDxYIEssjuQ2ca69r_b2dYfaWgPXZUyMbDt4gUU/s640/IMG_6027.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> Man selling <i>lunghis</i> and pomegranates</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I'll confess that part of my impetus to
visit Bangladesh was to be a show-off. I'm drawn to places, especially big
cities, with bad reputations, and get a certain thrill from learning to love
them. I'm happy to get my fix of nature from the Discovery Channel. Pollution,
crime, poverty are my magnets, along with good food, lively street life, and
overt displays of religious fervor. Having considered myself a big scaredy cat
most of my life, I find the role of urban explorer allows my inner tough guy to
shine. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">My training years were in New York City,
arriving at age 19 and living (only briefly--I headed uptown after being mugged
twice) in the Lower East Side, on a street, I later learned, that had more
known drug addicts than any place in the Manhattan. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">My twenty years of exploring and writing
about Mexico City have made it easy for me to adjust to broken sidewalks, total
lack of zoning restrictions, numbing traffic jams, and crowded metros. Multiple
trips to Bangkok, Cairo, Mumbai, Delhi, and Calcutta honed my skills for
walking on the wild side. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">So what was this thing in the pit of my
stomach as I contemplated my arrival in Dhaka?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Did it have anything to do with the <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/23/t-magazine/travel/dhaka-bangladesh-traffic.html?_r=0">New
York Times article</a> my friend Vivian sent me just before I left, calling
Dhaka "a traffic jam that never ends?" Or was it the one about the
terrorist attack in the tourist-friendly café? The collapse of a clothing
sweatshop that destroyed a whole city block? Or this <a href="http://www.thedailystar.net/country/dhaka-one-worlds-worst-holiday-spots-1351234">article</a> naming Dhaka one of the ten worst tourist destinations in the world?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">My knowledge of Bangladesh did not go much
beyond a vague memory of a<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Concert_for_Bangladesh"> benefit concert</a>
organized by Ringo Starr in 1971, the devastating famine that followed a few
years later, and scattered reports of overloaded ferries sinking in murky
waters. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">One thing that living in Mexico City has
taught me is that the bad news about a place makes a much stronger impression
on most of us than the good news. But it rarely paints a complete picture. So,
in spite of arriving in Dhaka and thinking "this has to be the ugliest
place on earth," we decided to stick around, ending up spending 8 nights there.
Now I dream of going back. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Our taxi ride from the airport confirmed
the traffic reports. Moments of stasis alternated with rapid spurts of forward
motion, and about 90 minutes later we arrived at our hotel. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I had chosen the <a href="http://www.hotel71.com.bd/">Hotel 71</a> based on its location near to
Old Dhaka, which my Lonely Planet guidebook described as 'unrivalled
chaos'.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We dropped off our bags, headed
out into the fray, and immediately felt happy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">One of our first 'sights' was a
construction crew, attired in fetching plaid <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lunghis </i>(wrap around skirts) operating a jerry-rigged water pump on
makeshift bamboo scaffolding. Construction became a familiar sight in Dhaka,
where it seems that half the streets are being dug up, and buildings in stages
of construction or decay seem to outnumber finished ones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQtdLNtF7ty9kUtWhKrOx75HLbDkncBV7XfZsf9YLJaYBS87SyEek3deYAfaIkuds1Fr1FsB0nxx4GYDY6bu8cM0ifVR5-1xhxQwJ8OKNS08YJRX0b8MXuu0nV02W1g6SZ5qNIcgubD0/s1600/IMG_5490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQtdLNtF7ty9kUtWhKrOx75HLbDkncBV7XfZsf9YLJaYBS87SyEek3deYAfaIkuds1Fr1FsB0nxx4GYDY6bu8cM0ifVR5-1xhxQwJ8OKNS08YJRX0b8MXuu0nV02W1g6SZ5qNIcgubD0/s640/IMG_5490.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US">Our encounters with people begin at once,
with a mix of blank stares, greetings of Hello, Welcome to Bangladesh, Where
are you from? What is your name? It felt like being on a reception line at a
wedding as guest of honor. In our eleven days in Bangladesh we only saw four
foreigners that we could identify as tourists, so it was easy to understand
what made us unusual. Of all the countries I have visited, no place has made me
feel so welcome as Bangladesh. </span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9HcPN2n0X2wQSc76iTuxrHKllhY24OuTBgQJQY_BDObKt-B3rYVyM_IbbIA9PE8CmjF6zE2k1XEqw_kYUV7bYODKMsyrvBAr45I3JoBWvdytqU2Z9ZVO3C9VgEwBOTkYr99BSePyc_s/s1600/IMG_6137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9HcPN2n0X2wQSc76iTuxrHKllhY24OuTBgQJQY_BDObKt-B3rYVyM_IbbIA9PE8CmjF6zE2k1XEqw_kYUV7bYODKMsyrvBAr45I3JoBWvdytqU2Z9ZVO3C9VgEwBOTkYr99BSePyc_s/s640/IMG_6137.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7XGpAs_34mxo7vzyJGLSxsxrbDWnmHyaQNu38UiiYmw2XARtW1d-IXHH2OR5t0-bHSodVoAffBlaZjlqJP0qbeshmLRkSnH8-urZ1nVPkRfSLyd_JKuqU_BZU_okn2CeV14V-YGOnLLA/s1600/IMG_6146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7XGpAs_34mxo7vzyJGLSxsxrbDWnmHyaQNu38UiiYmw2XARtW1d-IXHH2OR5t0-bHSodVoAffBlaZjlqJP0qbeshmLRkSnH8-urZ1nVPkRfSLyd_JKuqU_BZU_okn2CeV14V-YGOnLLA/s640/IMG_6146.JPG" width="640" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiGn51T5ZAQPqxs2n_d2HP3mbhIpdvzxXVtDwXR8KapwKIhU-7OhTCNx1_AbDBKLJ4UtKSpi6FXs0bPYBG68P6aYbkpmOGnGa-9L376_LsX3mTo8Glqe8tzl9uVySLVTnIE8-ZfQ5cGg/s1600/IMG_5510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiGn51T5ZAQPqxs2n_d2HP3mbhIpdvzxXVtDwXR8KapwKIhU-7OhTCNx1_AbDBKLJ4UtKSpi6FXs0bPYBG68P6aYbkpmOGnGa-9L376_LsX3mTo8Glqe8tzl9uVySLVTnIE8-ZfQ5cGg/s640/IMG_5510.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHPS1l03cLgnrMcas0eb1MSWTRFdhxrJteD24MT-OLll_kD3YnzN_1U2C6KioYoG6311YAU_BxIfJmBCe2hNkWgAPCWNF8KNKa4ggI-rpLp-TX7UAWImj_kKTSoO-sgzNz-LaJznYRZVM/s1600/IMG_6073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHPS1l03cLgnrMcas0eb1MSWTRFdhxrJteD24MT-OLll_kD3YnzN_1U2C6KioYoG6311YAU_BxIfJmBCe2hNkWgAPCWNF8KNKa4ggI-rpLp-TX7UAWImj_kKTSoO-sgzNz-LaJznYRZVM/s640/IMG_6073.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyt9Jcfs3xLbwJTwvX0_UuSo0a6BTcCoOtt3JG6zNbj2AB0Iznrxu2Y3q9GHiq9qA-IZKZaRTRZ28xQT8sGpDaz-f2E1dTz6M-ASr0RjSkde2Q4B3DBUX_pLh5YrEs8OajJidYRsFT54k/s1600/IMG_6049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyt9Jcfs3xLbwJTwvX0_UuSo0a6BTcCoOtt3JG6zNbj2AB0Iznrxu2Y3q9GHiq9qA-IZKZaRTRZ28xQT8sGpDaz-f2E1dTz6M-ASr0RjSkde2Q4B3DBUX_pLh5YrEs8OajJidYRsFT54k/s640/IMG_6049.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQvUGOfFjOZDJbbt0f0WInqQhd8kD9s3NQU9sVFeBchdhXBZsC-G2jLKcVxHsb1c4vmTXeAsX214xY4h3mfAL6F4AWGVdMPgjtXjfbIIFmN48gVkq9eRNR4K0GZk83meSM6YwdG0ESyw/s1600/IMG_6063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQvUGOfFjOZDJbbt0f0WInqQhd8kD9s3NQU9sVFeBchdhXBZsC-G2jLKcVxHsb1c4vmTXeAsX214xY4h3mfAL6F4AWGVdMPgjtXjfbIIFmN48gVkq9eRNR4K0GZk83meSM6YwdG0ESyw/s640/IMG_6063.jpg" width="622" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US">The first few days I walked around astounded
at the physical ugliness of the city. Unlike India, where ornate Mughal era
buildings interrupt the urban rot, Dhaka has very little that is old. New
construction (and there's lots of it) seems to have been designed by whoever
finished last in architecture class. Abandoned, half-build construction is
found throughout the city, suggesting a boom and bust economy, a tug-of-war
between moving forward and collapsing into an exhausted pile (a sensation I
often experienced here).</span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidY9uk0mK7h9dkdg9GgDUQeEROboVOLaSPjeVvATE5xLe91hBqvU2wKEEteck-PhSKYYBtmzSNgO_KKgVlwRuM2TXMJ2MWrUPP9aor9hLNkHfmPYHN2W3N1CdiNHdl1QMwTn2lelOywxw/s1600/IMG_5597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidY9uk0mK7h9dkdg9GgDUQeEROboVOLaSPjeVvATE5xLe91hBqvU2wKEEteck-PhSKYYBtmzSNgO_KKgVlwRuM2TXMJ2MWrUPP9aor9hLNkHfmPYHN2W3N1CdiNHdl1QMwTn2lelOywxw/s640/IMG_5597.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIKtZjpx3QGB1sR78jqM5Q53VZsi9EY2sgnBu3bJ4pZQ-KvOj9RFFHeStc6X2sHPLEjvGvaN-9U-6wX5bgYpHUYbRT9QAwRSF33FqUvQ2gf6JJa_XqzwzGQQ3wYBgTyBi3P3KBizykOY/s1600/IMG_6084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIKtZjpx3QGB1sR78jqM5Q53VZsi9EY2sgnBu3bJ4pZQ-KvOj9RFFHeStc6X2sHPLEjvGvaN-9U-6wX5bgYpHUYbRT9QAwRSF33FqUvQ2gf6JJa_XqzwzGQQ3wYBgTyBi3P3KBizykOY/s640/IMG_6084.jpg" width="442" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">There's a lot of what I would call
dystopian architecture, which perhaps once looked slick and glitzy or never
quite made it there. After recoiling in horror at the grim and dreary aspect of
the city, I started seeing it as a geometric background for the very colorful
street theater. Making my way along broken streets became a sport. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-eaalHsRYeeKCtsEGhU2LOTzU82iXOI4R6bCVK3T0JlqQEK1xr-y3vfdiIvP7FxQ-NbRsG_CYtO-Qr8rrLP9FS-anZDVyP3NsdJfhiCRgSh2Wq8w9Wj8VNhS4ugronY6eaV0NTnW3-uU/s1600/IMG_5974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-eaalHsRYeeKCtsEGhU2LOTzU82iXOI4R6bCVK3T0JlqQEK1xr-y3vfdiIvP7FxQ-NbRsG_CYtO-Qr8rrLP9FS-anZDVyP3NsdJfhiCRgSh2Wq8w9Wj8VNhS4ugronY6eaV0NTnW3-uU/s640/IMG_5974.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RsTCTM3wvAlIuFJPrDQHvPgHClk-Yf2NbftErARRsYKUGLUKZoTt-HcSzhDyHwqx3gDckghnFiE22hOrJlelj3rB8exdGOoOzYd_I37hJ7UyKov9CUdL9z9nixjHh_uZfkqDDQPebmQ/s1600/IMG_6079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RsTCTM3wvAlIuFJPrDQHvPgHClk-Yf2NbftErARRsYKUGLUKZoTt-HcSzhDyHwqx3gDckghnFiE22hOrJlelj3rB8exdGOoOzYd_I37hJ7UyKov9CUdL9z9nixjHh_uZfkqDDQPebmQ/s640/IMG_6079.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US">We stated in several places in Dhaka--we
got an upgrade to a larger room at the Hotel Victory (photo below), which was
quite comfortable. Outside chaos reigned. </span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_PVrK0r0Td4DWbMFddD9VyYCwwuTk3u0nxvsUEYtNUjV91M0b02tBmDdSDQ9XAjzQOK14gQiyxINeOog9nVnDrJFy4kBkmRSGKWmyaoBQuIMoll7di9pZZLYDQf4iDpt9SDlfFDLlD64/s1600/IMG_6097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_PVrK0r0Td4DWbMFddD9VyYCwwuTk3u0nxvsUEYtNUjV91M0b02tBmDdSDQ9XAjzQOK14gQiyxINeOog9nVnDrJFy4kBkmRSGKWmyaoBQuIMoll7di9pZZLYDQf4iDpt9SDlfFDLlD64/s640/IMG_6097.jpg" width="506" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US">(American architect <a href="https://www.google.com.mx/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1266&bih=672&q=louis+kahn+dhaka&oq=louis+kahn+dhaka&gs_l=img.1.0.0l3j0i24k1.1381.5423.0.7067.16.11.0.5.5.0.194.1041.5j4.9.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..2.14.1069.ByBTVF7MXMc">Louis
Kahn's Government Assembly</a> building is the city's most famous structure,
but since Parliament was in session we were not allowed in.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> Sadarghat is the bustling riverside dock with dozens of ferries like this one lined up.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjmfQBisr0aS3OjKTyFVQQqu5z2Yw7t0_sr7abp7MDpvoKzPlkZoq_h0k3jDoK4BrfvmprE-FXmk0DSJhzVYqPMDktisnSIeDdu5sGEqNC2h5ZtQdHyWFsOtAv4KHeXcGvPb-uHfbkH8/s1600/IMG_5832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjmfQBisr0aS3OjKTyFVQQqu5z2Yw7t0_sr7abp7MDpvoKzPlkZoq_h0k3jDoK4BrfvmprE-FXmk0DSJhzVYqPMDktisnSIeDdu5sGEqNC2h5ZtQdHyWFsOtAv4KHeXcGvPb-uHfbkH8/s640/IMG_5832.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US">But when my focused changed from the big
picture to the details is when it really started to be fun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I began to find beauty in unexpected places,
even traffic jams. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIhgkVPTvRQuLLt6XzipLBcS9W-5lLRC4u4zEV17h85iG22hyKI9nN8ZxA2hjA6t8f8JQOI6sfOkJzu9tKLH-aVfG-braeEtq35DekUtbilzbfghhKHa131iFAkmfR3I8pijg7Gm7MZU/s1600/IMG_5868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIhgkVPTvRQuLLt6XzipLBcS9W-5lLRC4u4zEV17h85iG22hyKI9nN8ZxA2hjA6t8f8JQOI6sfOkJzu9tKLH-aVfG-braeEtq35DekUtbilzbfghhKHa131iFAkmfR3I8pijg7Gm7MZU/s640/IMG_5868.jpg" width="538" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Traffic in Dhaka is a form of improvised
choreography, jazz on wheels. With tens of thousands of bicycle rickshaws
plying the streets, everything slows down to their speed, making it easy for
pedestrians to barge right into the mix. The sweet tinkling of their bells and
the Muslim call to prayer provide background music, adding an odd element of
charm to the inferno. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Click on the
image below to see video).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
ADD VIDEO</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">There are no stoplights in Dhaka, although
at a few large intersections policemen keep things under strict control with a
slight wave of their hand. It remained one of the city's mysteries how and why
these barely perceptible hand movements were met with such total obedience.
Everywhere else it seemed like a free-for-all. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Although I only saw one small accident--a
hefty woman was tilted off her rickshaw by a passing truck--the evidence is
clear that driving in the city is a contact sport. Just take a look at the
buses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7haDcclLhQQ755Y9d5sAN75PhHdRHyfzMSccwZTpU0FSXbFrOcA4aIBXWYHBlf1sFrlFutuGLgiCWTpGmMGDT3dcguPPssc4xijk950q-1RD3O7nASx2zLt2Kt-matp4HGjY7FojBCQA/s1600/IMG_5505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7haDcclLhQQ755Y9d5sAN75PhHdRHyfzMSccwZTpU0FSXbFrOcA4aIBXWYHBlf1sFrlFutuGLgiCWTpGmMGDT3dcguPPssc4xijk950q-1RD3O7nASx2zLt2Kt-matp4HGjY7FojBCQA/s640/IMG_5505.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Dinged, dented, battered and bashed, mangled, scratched and crumpled,
the battle scarred public transport buses of Dhaka wear their wounds
with pride.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPN8zeILhfS5b1okQd3oAwFea7InjTIhFHEb2PSaFNQWI3LzOar6TwttDa7gK7KGUdT23zRUozLcjN7qMOV7EKNGsMiFHur9lj152IrqQXUXJF1MlAwhu3PT4M5BuIO9mAAobPg3ziRzg/s1600/IMG_5769.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPN8zeILhfS5b1okQd3oAwFea7InjTIhFHEb2PSaFNQWI3LzOar6TwttDa7gK7KGUdT23zRUozLcjN7qMOV7EKNGsMiFHur9lj152IrqQXUXJF1MlAwhu3PT4M5BuIO9mAAobPg3ziRzg/s640/IMG_5769.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZGIX24IBsGzri81P-5BHwn7kfMFmj85scZ2opNTfKQ-oqW4kZZ4rHp4A2bsqI0hIEeX5Nkb6OLaZWyXn_i6Y8WpvlqAE0DT1kKomWU60IGlGl7wc03Vd2Apz9jbaW8VJYCexHRrgRF78/s1600/IMG_5785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZGIX24IBsGzri81P-5BHwn7kfMFmj85scZ2opNTfKQ-oqW4kZZ4rHp4A2bsqI0hIEeX5Nkb6OLaZWyXn_i6Y8WpvlqAE0DT1kKomWU60IGlGl7wc03Vd2Apz9jbaW8VJYCexHRrgRF78/s640/IMG_5785.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibaoerEkANhJWIZ-dsjwBx3_p6r_JTbYOtXjjGKXlnSA6YBQ-s2DifCSlWCv8E9oh6NbPZybRmbNDFCxcpBwuMAsWUZADX6wU25BbldVmkWp9w8g_7k1kiOE-e2XHPvyCrfR7-Nmt4Dss/s1600/IMG_5899.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibaoerEkANhJWIZ-dsjwBx3_p6r_JTbYOtXjjGKXlnSA6YBQ-s2DifCSlWCv8E9oh6NbPZybRmbNDFCxcpBwuMAsWUZADX6wU25BbldVmkWp9w8g_7k1kiOE-e2XHPvyCrfR7-Nmt4Dss/s640/IMG_5899.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Paintings like this one by German artist Gerhard Richter sell for millions:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQh2Iwuqrx3n_Zb3wKSkHH1Twx3PlnFma9T2YWE9I1lV30CVhg8xQjX8cmkkOS2JIRTpYhMsdXkrtR5DH8M_W60e692mYjZ7TOYPX627NmmlD6uhXQFSnCNJKttShdZnlUFdLiM9Xpxc/s1600/Sin+ti%25CC%2581tulo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQh2Iwuqrx3n_Zb3wKSkHH1Twx3PlnFma9T2YWE9I1lV30CVhg8xQjX8cmkkOS2JIRTpYhMsdXkrtR5DH8M_W60e692mYjZ7TOYPX627NmmlD6uhXQFSnCNJKttShdZnlUFdLiM9Xpxc/s640/Sin+ti%25CC%2581tulo.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US">The seat of a bicycle rickshaw offers the
perfect opportunity to observe fashion--many of the drivers were quite nattily
dressed. Most wore<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> lunghis</i>, long wrap
around skirts, accessorized with sashes and scarves. Mismatched plaids and
vibrant colors were in style. Even though these guys are laboring at the lower
rungs of the economic ladder, it looks like they give more than a passing
thought to what they are going to wear to work. In the upscale areas of Banani
and Gulshan in North Dhaka, where we spent less time, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lunghi </i>is less common--western style has taken over. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLK3jbKf7u9Pg-RwL-7sHwUfyL7XoESOjiKrC6JAJCGrVNYvhpC03lCkGgHynK5Mo6JCs-Kt_4vMmuqwM2ltw-DKKkJhPnnmm-majvYOOgvZB1kyN0KN3kKPjr1CtWzL5DF7ctrdbPiaE/s1600/IMG_6095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLK3jbKf7u9Pg-RwL-7sHwUfyL7XoESOjiKrC6JAJCGrVNYvhpC03lCkGgHynK5Mo6JCs-Kt_4vMmuqwM2ltw-DKKkJhPnnmm-majvYOOgvZB1kyN0KN3kKPjr1CtWzL5DF7ctrdbPiaE/s640/IMG_6095.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPdyqBAfZpDXOABr2CcWbbnWyhb3nsvhu7XT_swrCT-qinUnSCezE-LD0IJ-8Q3YzuavZj9NeXgjYWIBel4XdVjomRX5bpVprtxm1WOK4YuQdC0Co2m8KuTQ3ReVQkW6cUFkcPH7BCp0/s1600/IMG_5997.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPdyqBAfZpDXOABr2CcWbbnWyhb3nsvhu7XT_swrCT-qinUnSCezE-LD0IJ-8Q3YzuavZj9NeXgjYWIBel4XdVjomRX5bpVprtxm1WOK4YuQdC0Co2m8KuTQ3ReVQkW6cUFkcPH7BCp0/s640/IMG_5997.jpg" width="432" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidPPnYLVPOT9JPGrvvaPYx-8j7HVBYTyWq04U2qpa_LmxzmZeT8tK7yCWMv1-24enXwqXAWpIqO-wzENfBRu1yr2R5PJ5sMtL68JsECpx00sYIJlGnXoSYj_e7YYvZnnJky1AOdBZnz0/s1600/IMG_6006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidPPnYLVPOT9JPGrvvaPYx-8j7HVBYTyWq04U2qpa_LmxzmZeT8tK7yCWMv1-24enXwqXAWpIqO-wzENfBRu1yr2R5PJ5sMtL68JsECpx00sYIJlGnXoSYj_e7YYvZnnJky1AOdBZnz0/s640/IMG_6006.jpg" width="352" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDafIzxGNmtz8mmxohBmoSs5YXuLy29kEccWYhKJUn69tnVwCQTgv9La13X7j4V2RSBRxFRC1kXAWynPD9gee6vbf-orTst9LNSCZrWQB1OM9efEEVXgxFqVuOMUfZkDcSrNPtxiHPq-0/s1600/IMG_5994.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDafIzxGNmtz8mmxohBmoSs5YXuLy29kEccWYhKJUn69tnVwCQTgv9La13X7j4V2RSBRxFRC1kXAWynPD9gee6vbf-orTst9LNSCZrWQB1OM9efEEVXgxFqVuOMUfZkDcSrNPtxiHPq-0/s640/IMG_5994.jpg" width="388" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNQcn-X-jaaKLw694TsCGhH5WwJhbHKRqB2ifwqLPVfvlklJbXWkQOg2Me-iAN-EDiUCZ-kMgFYYaf9ivuFfEgNSVpoZCB_oQJenZd3_4piVMdJ7m8qpFeUBu9U8SkgqBLElmXQjnbKs/s1600/IMG_5966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNQcn-X-jaaKLw694TsCGhH5WwJhbHKRqB2ifwqLPVfvlklJbXWkQOg2Me-iAN-EDiUCZ-kMgFYYaf9ivuFfEgNSVpoZCB_oQJenZd3_4piVMdJ7m8qpFeUBu9U8SkgqBLElmXQjnbKs/s640/IMG_5966.jpg" width="390" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHo6hL2DIhqBBbR9HjErwK1cxAb6inh6jfMYiHrT2uqX0W2mL0LUwz3K3IXS2-FwT83LqIpmMbv31W6dumWhzwXiQvBKHxDukYXudq-GrM-KCKsYnBrYE_blUwCJd4BfQYIpSGk-9-km0/s1600/IMG_5957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHo6hL2DIhqBBbR9HjErwK1cxAb6inh6jfMYiHrT2uqX0W2mL0LUwz3K3IXS2-FwT83LqIpmMbv31W6dumWhzwXiQvBKHxDukYXudq-GrM-KCKsYnBrYE_blUwCJd4BfQYIpSGk-9-km0/s640/IMG_5957.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_ivWMAFhyphenhyphensc1y6nEwzp1_HmofLML6zvL-fmxLo39fiFCJkZ0eeOeom__d-L0v9b43e-5-lVjanFwX4xp4_WvNB_1eHJcIJzVFI2Ux7YbSMoA3eHL_Ax1-AQeqNRF7eNlr1yImasmG84/s1600/IMG_5927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_ivWMAFhyphenhyphensc1y6nEwzp1_HmofLML6zvL-fmxLo39fiFCJkZ0eeOeom__d-L0v9b43e-5-lVjanFwX4xp4_WvNB_1eHJcIJzVFI2Ux7YbSMoA3eHL_Ax1-AQeqNRF7eNlr1yImasmG84/s640/IMG_5927.jpg" width="460" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMI8kedW6m7nqZNieppb1LQ4wZv7slJtVMrgqf8ST5cIEUHZzPPzCAgSFa81glDpP7-867O5rQSD-jRusHxrMJ2kuSew8WS_DMzwU5N3LixkHD5bgpjneupT2huYKTgbi9iuviJdQHg4/s1600/IMG_6093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMI8kedW6m7nqZNieppb1LQ4wZv7slJtVMrgqf8ST5cIEUHZzPPzCAgSFa81glDpP7-867O5rQSD-jRusHxrMJ2kuSew8WS_DMzwU5N3LixkHD5bgpjneupT2huYKTgbi9iuviJdQHg4/s640/IMG_6093.jpg" width="436" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US">Ultimately what makes Dhaka fascinating is
the street life. The so-called sights were usually ho-hum, but getting there
and back was always an adventure. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAv6ONsrcDVMq0UghxnpHn3hd5s8R2w98OjF5aQc0VGVRugoPsOhd2Z2jCNpGELkYuHfwBgErQvBIOgI3mYbtw3hgZDkwXChEDJSad02vtrl_dMytA-_TXSS346SjTzLaNvktm1NnBCg/s1600/IMG_5629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAv6ONsrcDVMq0UghxnpHn3hd5s8R2w98OjF5aQc0VGVRugoPsOhd2Z2jCNpGELkYuHfwBgErQvBIOgI3mYbtw3hgZDkwXChEDJSad02vtrl_dMytA-_TXSS346SjTzLaNvktm1NnBCg/s640/IMG_5629.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US">The pink Ahsan Manzil, a former nawab's palace,
now a museum, is one of the few real tourist sights in town. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCkhCtgkxBH3Wbc5emlNFuSq6FwEHqnskZk22CxW7yppugCqzTB7kDpZdwFFWP0rwR6ExoHBxk6bSwOL6eClROPIi4EuTh3RE_oT-AohmKjm6NW8YRXe5VqaDEWIyiijcer8lk8r5aAqo/s1600/IMG_5685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCkhCtgkxBH3Wbc5emlNFuSq6FwEHqnskZk22CxW7yppugCqzTB7kDpZdwFFWP0rwR6ExoHBxk6bSwOL6eClROPIi4EuTh3RE_oT-AohmKjm6NW8YRXe5VqaDEWIyiijcer8lk8r5aAqo/s640/IMG_5685.jpg" width="460" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US">You don't see many women on the street
compared to the number of men, so I can only assume they're home cooking and
cleaning. But it's rare to see a woman in purdah and those you see often seem
self-assured and open. This beauty is one of the few who actually started a
conversation with us and allowed a photo.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwHRuj5RBMOz66oUEG3IupMmK5-GdYNqkcFbWWnlnheMnPEB5YxY-nMv7xw1zAT3dhcsPO4rLul7qGvG7z5_IekasZaoeJQxDhYT5H-4d1ieYuuQ76GN89fCO5yhulEog0HcfAiKqpQU/s1600/IMG_5828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwHRuj5RBMOz66oUEG3IupMmK5-GdYNqkcFbWWnlnheMnPEB5YxY-nMv7xw1zAT3dhcsPO4rLul7qGvG7z5_IekasZaoeJQxDhYT5H-4d1ieYuuQ76GN89fCO5yhulEog0HcfAiKqpQU/s640/IMG_5828.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> Sign for a dental clinic</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9pb0Vu4gk5qm7EooihmNNZwJa8xKVU5aBeyPEn32CjlllAVCl4k2iupeSy5FEuRg9pDyhppxm68nh03ruH2Tx_tkj4Q71TIZIGUthkcVjheOdb26X4mONjiI58ZEzhNTkHwimBjUAYQ/s1600/IMG_5840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9pb0Vu4gk5qm7EooihmNNZwJa8xKVU5aBeyPEn32CjlllAVCl4k2iupeSy5FEuRg9pDyhppxm68nh03ruH2Tx_tkj4Q71TIZIGUthkcVjheOdb26X4mONjiI58ZEzhNTkHwimBjUAYQ/s640/IMG_5840.jpg" width="514" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US">Mysterious street scene. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdxB9GWD2aEs_kMp9nYXssqmlyxC-oG6mKdP-yxo_r-KUTJy33RgzoXIoGzeVCBIqYuOmnyGqQVZDNagjUrwqC6CHwwMgS0Xz8TrFhW0elHCM3R3S03Fo1VyBc43vmblIOtigWb4LtR0/s1600/IMG_5884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdxB9GWD2aEs_kMp9nYXssqmlyxC-oG6mKdP-yxo_r-KUTJy33RgzoXIoGzeVCBIqYuOmnyGqQVZDNagjUrwqC6CHwwMgS0Xz8TrFhW0elHCM3R3S03Fo1VyBc43vmblIOtigWb4LtR0/s640/IMG_5884.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Lakshmi <span lang="EN-US">in a Hindu scultpure studio. </span> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3q_Vo89j7tBp-YOZGyGHTfJI5A_sUxj3pbdiKIqP8eSdJi817vsvlgtiWJf3tVI2HMwhcqDuPs7-jVXAk6mdLwHvU13WbHTrgFZBaaYij_lOAcvQaScp_0hdsoOOnL7axN6zqMsUXrBk/s1600/IMG_5888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3q_Vo89j7tBp-YOZGyGHTfJI5A_sUxj3pbdiKIqP8eSdJi817vsvlgtiWJf3tVI2HMwhcqDuPs7-jVXAk6mdLwHvU13WbHTrgFZBaaYij_lOAcvQaScp_0hdsoOOnL7axN6zqMsUXrBk/s640/IMG_5888.jpg" width="436" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> Bamboo is used as scaffolding, even on
high-rise buildings. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKoz6GXqn29Kvlmoqw_xcQr5t71Q3T4xmUh9D52BuiFa8QyS6VdoG3xn0yHRjEbeGGMYTkVoWfenYFw04OgPS0JhJS0imwzJpMwIWfyIR3Ujt7MuDjLYxKdsC4WZ4xTVepJ4okCe6VRJY/s1600/IMG_6473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKoz6GXqn29Kvlmoqw_xcQr5t71Q3T4xmUh9D52BuiFa8QyS6VdoG3xn0yHRjEbeGGMYTkVoWfenYFw04OgPS0JhJS0imwzJpMwIWfyIR3Ujt7MuDjLYxKdsC4WZ4xTVepJ4okCe6VRJY/s640/IMG_6473.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1htMewzDsz2sCFinvTbCPBL1FDlTYs37lDSZEGFCmxnDpIgGUaTCD1gBPVIQK5ppTn_HFTZ0PjEEeOIrspgc8Or3cassp3rHYn_iHlVx05rOW558OoP_1VCbiuQuJj0VyDAIJhXmoK2c/s1600/IMG_6121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1htMewzDsz2sCFinvTbCPBL1FDlTYs37lDSZEGFCmxnDpIgGUaTCD1gBPVIQK5ppTn_HFTZ0PjEEeOIrspgc8Or3cassp3rHYn_iHlVx05rOW558OoP_1VCbiuQuJj0VyDAIJhXmoK2c/s640/IMG_6121.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US">In front of a butcher's shop. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0wZY_8b2lviJK3B-pVBGbqLyZ8DnTYxjuUKFKhE57vy3cYAkZwnHNyZ5X-ZLDJNsmz9JG7q4SLxhyphenhyphenEyCie_ZeIUAF5Kw3eJIttil7FVaUOqyIYdsyzrZsl7kFiRvh9lqKVMI6zn-Jbo/s1600/IMG_6080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0wZY_8b2lviJK3B-pVBGbqLyZ8DnTYxjuUKFKhE57vy3cYAkZwnHNyZ5X-ZLDJNsmz9JG7q4SLxhyphenhyphenEyCie_ZeIUAF5Kw3eJIttil7FVaUOqyIYdsyzrZsl7kFiRvh9lqKVMI6zn-Jbo/s640/IMG_6080.jpg" width="640" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US">Daily newpapers are pasted to the wall for
easy reading. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4A8s0TrEURbEu_y_bBst7iqZI9SQydl3maA1gk2uEEMZUt-1wz4yjKmuJ7cXPS9XZFqfR5o2jAiKywIKi19s7tpvd95uxyOuffmAC3yqKfOfW1oVEBN1gAN9FyNHunhi2_X8O38dFCSE/s1600/IMG_5914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4A8s0TrEURbEu_y_bBst7iqZI9SQydl3maA1gk2uEEMZUt-1wz4yjKmuJ7cXPS9XZFqfR5o2jAiKywIKi19s7tpvd95uxyOuffmAC3yqKfOfW1oVEBN1gAN9FyNHunhi2_X8O38dFCSE/s640/IMG_5914.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US">I met this one-man walking coffee shop and
had a cup after lunch one day. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBD7ASuGuOqINcT4voS9vz7Pt8Ek3VbuF5ph2w_FfwPMs5YiGe7exgaGYeYvjduIoG1YvojNwSZvDEQEhKKi6F_QJHS2TR5HhWAOUSahhoOtImwFHiVwrmxNISPFrypoxGYbii0joBjkA/s1600/IMG_6038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBD7ASuGuOqINcT4voS9vz7Pt8Ek3VbuF5ph2w_FfwPMs5YiGe7exgaGYeYvjduIoG1YvojNwSZvDEQEhKKi6F_QJHS2TR5HhWAOUSahhoOtImwFHiVwrmxNISPFrypoxGYbii0joBjkA/s640/IMG_6038.jpg" width="428" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US">Bicycle rickshaws are the most highly
decorative element in Dhaka. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-no-proof: yes;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-12224671813611269742015-11-18T13:40:00.003-06:002018-01-02T10:09:38.720-06:00ORISSA (India)<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 19.0pt;">Travel date: November 2014</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 19.0pt;">INDIA: Encounters in Rural Orissa</span></b><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 19.0pt;">by Jim Johnston (</span><span lang="EN-US"><a href="mailto:jimjohnstonart@gmail.com"><span lang="ES" style="color: #004abb; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 19.0pt;">jimjohnstonart@gmail.com</span></a></span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 19.0pt;">)</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">The Rajah of Panchkote's tiger-hunting
lodge has seen better days. But as his great grandson Debjit Singh Deo relates
the story of the family estate, the opulence of that bygone era springs to
life.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">"Our family palace in West Bengal had
the largest chandelier in Asia at the time--it took three elephants to hoist it
into place. There was a customized Rolls Royce, several houses by the sea, and
this," he says with a sweep of his hand. "Once the largest private
game reserve in the whole state of Orissa."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">The lodge, built in the 1930's and known as
Kila Dalijoda (Fort in the Forest), was the family's summer home, an escape
from the stifling heat of West Bengal. Back then, the rajah traveled with more
than fifty servants at his command, including cooks, priests, doctors,
musicians and dancing girls, flower arrangers, masseurs, car mechanics, a technician
to maintain his collection of clocks, a specialist to prepare his hookah, and
of course, someone to skin the tigers. The queen and her entourage had their
own staff.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">"Our ancestry goes back to 81
A.D.," Debjit states proudly. "But after Independence, the family's
fortune declined."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">Coal mines, the rajah's main source of
wealth,</span><span lang="ES" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;"> were<span style="color: #e72619;"> </span><span style="color: #141414;">nationalized, and land was expropriated for an elephant
sanctuary (the tigers had been hunted to near extinction), reducing the family
holdings from 11,000 acres to 80. The Rolls Royce and the chandelier were
auctioned off. Most of the land is now devoted to rice paddies, cultivated by
local villagers, who pay a small tax to the estate.</span></span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">The house was abandoned for more than
thirty years when Debjit arrived in 2005 with his new bride Namrata.
"There were trees growing on the roof," she </span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">recalls,</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;"> laughing. "And roots were dangling down into the dining room."
Rats, bats, pigeons and lizards inhabited the upper floors, and the ground
floor was taken over by the local land revenue office--it's still there.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">"In a way it was a blessing that the
tax men came," Debjit</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;"> explains.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;"> "Otherwise the whole house would have been taken away, stone by
stone--anything portable was carted off by the villagers long ago."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">The house, made of local volcanic stone,
was designed in the somber European style fashionable at the time, with none of
the ornate Mughal details often associated with India. Debjit and Namrata made
part of the upstairs into an apartment for themselves and their 6-year old
daughter, decorating it with period furniture. Two guest rooms are simply
furnished with antique beds and old photographs. What looks like a fireplace is
actually an old safe, where the raja stashed his jewels.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">"We aim to keep the estate
self-sustaining, as it was in the old days," Debjit states proudly. All of
the gas for cooking comes from methane, produced in a simple cistern utilizing
cow manure. The cows also provide milk, cheese and yogurt, made fresh daily.
Most of the vegetables and rice are grown within view of the kitchen.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">Rooms are cooled in summer by thick
curtains fashioned from aromatic twigs of the khus tree. Through a network of
small tubes, water drips down the curtains, cooling and scenting the air as it
passes through. </span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">Although Namrata claims not to be a great
cook, the food she serves from her simple kitchen is superb. "We eat
mostly vegetarian," she explains, "and occasionally lamb and
quail." Chicken is not permitted in the house because the property is
dedicated to the Hindu deity Bagalamata, in whose presence chickens are not
allowed. "We can eat chicken outside of the house if we want, but never
inside."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">Debjit is keen to show the traditional life
of rural Orissa, so after touring the estate we head off to some surrounding
tribal villages. As we walk down the lane away from his house, </span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">something incredible</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;"> occurs. Gone is the </span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">familiar cacophony of India.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #e72619; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;"> </span><span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">As
far as one can see in either direction there is neither a vehicle nor a person,
not a sound to be heard except the chirping of a few birds.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">Orissa, one of the poorest states in India,
is home to many indigenous tribes, each with its own customs, languages and
religious beliefs (most are animists who worship nature). We visit the village
of Kuchila Nuagon, inhabited by the Munda tribe. A scraggly tulsi tree, sacred
to the Munda,</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17px;"> </span><span style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17pt;">guards the entrance of the compound. The
mud-brick houses have thatched roofs and walls painted with geometric and
floral designs. Floors are recovered weekly with a thin layer of fine mud that
is burnished to a smooth, clean surface. With the exception of a few plastic
buckets, almost every object in sight is hand made. Most villagers are off in
the fields, but a few are busy husking rice or collecting firewood to sell in
the weekly market. A team of oxen yoked to an old millstone grinds wheat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">We visit the local <i>goshala</i>, a
combination orphanage/old age home for cows. Young cows from families too poor
to feed them, or old bulls beyond breeding age, are sent here. The place is
luxurious by village standards, and spotlessly clean.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">The remote Sabar tribe village of Banjhiama
is an hour's walk through the jungle foothills of an elephant reserve. Debjit
had mentioned recent rampages that destroyed some local rice paddies, so the
occasional elephant droppings cause a bit of alarm. What would happen if one
showed up? "Don't worry, he says reassuringly, "They only come out at
night."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">As we emerge from the forest, a serene view
of rice paddies appears before us. A few women are harvesting rice, the
thatched roofs of their village visible in the distance. Suddenly one woman
starts screaming, racing to the edge of the paddy, waving her arms frantically.
"Monkeys," Debjit explains. "They're a real nuisance here. They
just tear up the rice plants, and don't even eat them."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">A few dusty children and an old woman
crouching on the ground, her black wrinkled skin gleaming in the sunlight,
greet us as we enter the village. Seeing Debjit her face lights up in a broad
smile, exposing a mouthful of teeth stained red from chewing betel nuts.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">"Her husband was a guide for my
grandfather when he came to hunt tigers. I represent the family to them. Nobody
else from the outside world comes here. There is no medical care, no help from
the government. So they consider my presence a great honor."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">With Debjit as interpreter, I ask how old
she is; she has no idea. "When will you come back to visit us?" she asks.
"Next year," I answer hopefully. "I'll probably be dead by
then," she says with a big grin.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">On the way home, we pass a simple roadside
hut selling vegetables and <i> paan</i>, a pungent mixture of spices
wrapped in a leaf, used by locals much like chewing tobacco. A few men greet us
in a surprisingly friendly manner, and offer a taste of <i>rassi</i>, the local
liquor made from rice. "An Australian woman who was here recently insisted
on trying it and was sick for days," Debjit warns. "It's a real
problem with the local men. It's one of their few entertainments, but it wrecks
their bodies and causes all kinds of problems at home with their wives</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">."</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">Another day we visit the Alekh Mahima
Dharma temple in the town of Joranda to witness a fire ceremony. Founded in 1876
by Mahima Gosain, this monotheistic sect attracts followers from poorer classes
of society, and is particularly strong in tribal areas of Orissa. Sadhus, holy
men who renounce worldly goods (including most of their clothing), oversee the
temple complex and tend the eternal flame, which has </span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">been
maintained for nearly</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;"> 150 years. Unusual for India, no
idols are found in the Mahima temple, as they believe there is no possible
visual representation of God.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">In spite of their otherworldly looks, the
sadhus turned out to be a funny bunch of guys, eager to have their picture
taken, showing off their long hair, smiling and laughing amongst themselves and
with us, clearly expressing their teachings, which stress peace and brotherly
love.</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">During the final meal with the Deo family,
the couple tells of their arranged marriage. "We can only marry within the
royal Rajput lineage, and astrology is very important," Namrata explains
as she serves steaming, hand rolled chapati. "I had a very unusual chart,
so it took a long time to find someone like Debjit. I tell people he's one in a
million. "</span><span lang="ES" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">According to one popular guidebook, the
state of Orissa receives only about 1000 western visitors each year. Aside from
the temple at Konark, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it lacks high profile
tourist destinations. The real treasures here are memories of the people <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>encountered in this remote corner of
Orissa. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>ES-TRAD</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Tabla normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="color: #141414; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 17.0pt;">To arrange to stay at Kila Dalijoda,
contact Debjit by email at debjitsinghdeo@yahoo.co.in</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-42311024237827055712015-11-18T13:36:00.002-06:002015-11-18T13:36:52.671-06:00SOUTHERN ITALY (Pugila) May 2015<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">SOUTHERN
ITALY (Puglia) </span></b><span lang="EN-US">May 2015<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">(Anything<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> bold</b> can be found on google)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We took a cheap Ryan Air flight from Paris
to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Bari</b>, the hub of the region of
Puglia (in the heel of the boot shape of Italy).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We spent 2 nights there, which I do NOT
recommend. In fact you could skip Bari altogether. But if you arrive late as we
did, I suggest you look for a b&b in the old town (we stayed near the train
station).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We did have one of the very best meals of
our trip, however, at the <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Hosteria
degli Travi</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> <a href="https://plus.google.com/115700591484745600975/about?gl=mx&hl=en#https://plus.google.com/115700591484745600975/about?gl=mx&hl=en"></a>(be
sure to order the orichietti with ragu--a simple tomato and meat sauce that was
heavenly).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">It did not take long to cover Bari, so we
took a local train up the coast to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trani
</b>and spent a few happy hours there. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Option: If you arrive early enough, you
could drive directly to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Martina Franca</b>,
an excellent base for exploring the area, or to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Polignano a Mare</b>, a seaside town, somewhat touristy, but
charming.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We took a train (they run frequently and it
takes about 90 minutes) from Bari to<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">
Lecce, </b>a baroque gem of a town that should not be missed. You'll want to
rent a car later, but since the drive between Bari and Lecce is unexciting, the
train is easier and cheaper. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
Lecce, we stayed at<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Laralá</b> b&b
and loved it. Our 50 euro room was huge, filled with antiques and had a balcony
overlooking the public garden--good location, too. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Our best meal was at <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trattoria Nonna Tetti</b>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We rented a car in Lecce and did a day trip
to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Otranto</b> (you can skip it), and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Galatina</b>, where we had one of the best
meals of the trip at La <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tana del Lupo</b>,
where you must order the abundant antipasti--the best ricotta cheese ever
(better than Sicily!).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">From Lecce, we drove to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Martina Franca</b> and made that our base
for a few days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A stop of lovely<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Ostuni</b> on the way was delightful. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We spent our first night in a <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">trulli</b> (old stone house) b&b in the
countryside near Martina Franca. (Can't remember the name, but we found it on
airbnb.com--there are lots of them). It was a fun experience for one night, but
we decided we'd rather be in a town with a bit more nightlife, so moved to the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">B&B Huit </b>in the old part of
Martina. We had a huge apt. with a small terrace for 70 euros--great deal. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">From Martina you can drive to several
lovely small towns, all very close, each one just a bit different from the
next. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Alberobello </b>is the most
touristy, but is well worth a short visit to see the biggest cluster of trullis
around.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Locorotundo</b> and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Cisternino</b> were both highlights. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Our favorite meal in Martina Franca was at <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Garibaldi Bistrot</b>, right in the middle
of the old city. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We drove to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Matera </b>(about 90 minutes from Martina) for the day--it's worth more
time if you have it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>ES-TRAD</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Tabla normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">NOTE: do not leave luggage in your car
unattended, even in the trunk. We were robbed, and I afterwards heard that is
not uncommon, especially with rental cars. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-51308070552588899482014-04-15T16:41:00.003-05:002022-09-22T12:18:35.418-05:00MADRID<div>
<b><span lang="EN-US">MADRID</span></b><span lang="EN-US">—Some things not to miss</span></div>
<div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span lang="EN-US">1. <b>The Prado Museum</b>. Two of my favorite paintings in the world are here--</span><b>Rogier Van der Weyden's <a href="http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=hp&biw=1267&bih=664&q=rogier+van+der+weyden+deposition&gbv=2&oq=rogier+van+&aq=1&aqi=g10&aql=&gs_sm=1&gs_upl=1096l4139l0l5955l11l11l0l3l3l0l111l674l4.3l7l0">'Descent from the Cross'</a></b>, which I have used in my art workshops as an example of a perfectly composed painting, and <b>Zurburan's<a href="http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=hp&biw=1267&bih=664&q=rogier+van+der+weyden+deposition&gbv=2&oq=rogier+van+&aq=1&aqi=g10&aql=&gs_sm=1&gs_upl=1096l4139l0l5955l11l11l0l3l3l0l111l674l4.3l7l0#hl=en&gbv=2&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=zurburan+lamb+of+god&pbx=1&oq=zurburan+lamb+of+god&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=12&gs_upl=42823l50096l0l51278l24l24l2l10l0l0l175l1509l4.8l12l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=1427e872938ebe8b&biw=1267&bih=664"> 'Cordero de Dios'</a>,</b> a little painting of a lamb that is the perfect blend of abstraction and realism. The latter is not always on display, but the other paintings by Zurburan are also great. Don't miss them! If you go to the Prado late in the day it's usually less crowded--and they may still offer FREE ADMISSION at the end of the day--check their website. <br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
2. <b>The Botanical Garden</b>--right next to the Prado.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
3. <b><a href="http://www.casalabra.es/">Casa Labra</a>.</b> Tetuan, 12, just off the Puerta del Sol, this old-time place is famous for its <i>fino </i>(sherry) and <i>tajadas </i>(fried chunks of bacalao). The perfect snack. Opens late afternoon--eat standing up in the street. Line up to pay first, then get food and drink at counter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
4. <b><a href="http://www.casapatas.com/">Casa Patas</a>. </b>This is one of the best places in Madrid to see performance in flamenco dance/music. Reservations a must. NOTE--sadly, I just heard this closed during the pandemic. But I'm sure there are other venues for flamenco--search and go!<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
5. <b>Tapas Bars</b>. There are hundreds, many along Calle Huertas, now a pedestrian street. Two of our favorites in the area are the old-fashioned <a href="http://www.frommers.com/destinations/madrid/N26328.html"><b>La Venecia</b> </a>(Echegaray 7, get sherry<i>--fino--</i>and order the <i>mojama</i>, sort of like beef jerkey, but made from tuna). The other is <b>La Fabrica</b>, which has smoked fish that will erase Zabar's from your mind--esp. the <i>bacalao ahumado </i>(Calle Jesus #2). </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
6. <b><a href="http://museosorolla.mcu.es/">Sorolla Museum</a>. </b>Impressionist style painter--beautiful work shown in his house, which is fabulous. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
7. <b>Corte Inglés</b>, just off Puerta del Sol. The <b>food court in the basement</b> is a great place to pick up gifts. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
8. <a href="http://www.gomadrid.com/museums/biblioteca-museo-arqueologico.html"><b>Dama de Elche</b></a> This is the most famous piece in the <b><a href="http://man.mcu.es/">Archeology Museum</a></b>. It is part of the <b>early Iberian art</b> collection, which is truly fascinating. You'll see things here that look like nothing else in art history. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
9. <span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span lang="EN-US">Casa Mingo</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> – (Paseo de la Florida 34) homey old place for Asturian roast chicken and cider, near <i><a href="http://www.madridvillaycorte.es/iglesiasanantoniodelaflorida.php">Iglesia de San Antonio de la Florida</a>, </i>famous for its murals by Goya</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">10. </span><b>Torrijas</b>, sort of a Spanish version of French toast, but sweeter. It's a seasonal thing around Easter. You'll find it on menus or in pastry shops. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
11. <a href="http://www.ritzmadrid.com/web/orit/hotel_ritz_madrid.jsp" style="font-weight: bold;">Ritz Hotel</a><b>. </b>Poke around, use the bathrooms--grand, old world elegance.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">MADRID</span></b><span lang="EN-US">—Some things not to miss</span></div>
<div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Where to stay:</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Hostal in Chueca, <a href="http://hostalbenamar.es/index.html">http://hostalbenamar.es/index.html</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Near metro Anton Martin:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Hostal Castillo, St. Teresa 9, (looked closed)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">NH Hotel, St. Engracia</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Ibis Hotel, Malasaña</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
MISC.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.tele-taxi.es">www.tele-taxi.es</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Hotel near airport: Best Western Hotel Villa de Barajas,</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.bestwesternvilladebarajas.com">www.bestwesternvilladebarajas.com</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Culinary bookstore: <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.apuntolibreria.com">www.apuntolibreria.com</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">c/Pelayo 60, Chueca<b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "helvetica";">More food recommendations:</span></u></b><br />
<b><u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "helvetica";"><br /></span></u></b>
<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">OUR FAVORITE PLACE:<u> </u></span><a href="http://restaurantelacastela.com/" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #686560; font-family: Montserrat-Regular, Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">La Castela </a><br />
</b><div class="addressbit" style="background-color: #f0ede4; box-sizing: border-box; color: #686560; float: left; font-family: Montserrat-Regular, Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px; width: 220px;">
<b><span style="box-sizing: border-box;">Calle del Doctor Castelo, 22 28009 Madrid, Community of Madrid, Spain</span></b></div><b>
</b><div style="background-color: #f0ede4; box-sizing: border-box; color: #686560; float: right; font-family: Montserrat-Regular, Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: center; width: 80px;">
<b><a href="http://www.foodiehub.tv/fast-feasts/europe/Madrid?rest_id=2176&map=true" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008cba; line-height: inherit; text-decoration: none;"><img src="http://www.foodiehub.tv/images/map_image_sample.jpg" style="border: medium none; box-sizing: border-box; display: inline-block; height: auto; max-width: 100%; padding-top: 15px; vertical-align: middle;" /></a></b></div><b>
</b><div class="phone" style="background-color: #f0ede4; box-sizing: border-box; clear: left; color: #686560; font-family: Montserrat-Regular, Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><b>
Phone :+34915735590</b></div><b>
</b><div class="timings" style="background-color: #f0ede4; box-sizing: border-box; color: #686560; font-family: Montserrat-Regular, Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><b>
Timings: Mon-Sat 2 pm - 4 pm Mon-Fri 9 pm - 12 am Sun - closed</b></div>
</div>
<span lang="EN-US"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial";">La Giralda</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial";"> (Hartzenbusch, 15, near metro Bilbao) – for fried fish & seafood, sherry</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><b><span lang="ES">Casa Manolo </span></b><span lang="ES">(Jovellanos 7, near Teatro de la Zarzuela) for the best croquetas</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><b><span lang="EN-US">Madrid Restaurantes</span></b></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><b><span lang="EN-US">Casa Begnigna</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (calle Benigna Soto, 9, Metro Concha Espina) tel. 91 413 3356 – Amazing rice dishes, in an out of the way area but worth it – make reservstion</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><b><span lang="ES">El Ventorillo Murciana</span></b><span lang="ES"> – c/ Tres peces, 20, metro Anton Martin (Lavapies) tel. 91 528 8309– great rice dishes, make a reservation.</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"></span></span><br />
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><b>El Matadero</b> - 19th/20th century slaughterhouse of Madrid converted into a contemporary art and culture space</span></span></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><b>La Tabacalera</b> - Old tobacco factory split into two parts: one half is a state-run museum with fantastic exhibits, the other is an 'autogestion' that has been occupied (initially illegally, but subsequently the occupants were given rights by the government) and is a multicultural community center.</span></span></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><b>La Casa Encendida</b> - Cultural space run by the Caixa Madrid - has lots of concerts and exhibits.</span></span></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><b>Caixa Forum Barcelona</b> - Great old factory converted into massive contemporary art space</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><b>Bobo</b>, restaurant, Amaniel 23, near Paloma, Conde Duque</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><br /></span></span>
<div style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: small;">
<div style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium;">
The <b>Mercado San Miguel</b> (right near the Plaza Mayor) is a beautiful old market building that has been hipsterized and has stands offering all kinds of alluring food treats: <a href="http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es/en/" style="color: #1155cc;">http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es/en/</a></div>
</div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="ES"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: x-small;">-- </span></span></span></div>
</div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-56881308957043257812014-01-03T14:04:00.001-06:002014-01-03T14:04:00.555-06:00SHANGHAI LAYOVERIt was strangely difficult to find reliable information about hotels in/near the Shanghai airport,<br />
but once there I discovered a hotel <u>right in the middle of the two terminals</u>--there's a connecting bridge, so you can walk there directly.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.dazhongairporthotel.com/" style="background-color: white; color: #1155cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" target="_blank">http://www.<wbr></wbr>dazhongairporthotel.com</a><br />
<br />
As well as full-night rates, they offer hourly rates between 9am and 6pm.<br />
<br />
BEWARE: Once you clear customs and enter the terminal lobby you will be agressively greeted by a<br />
few men at a counter selling hotels--avoid them and go look for the above mentioned hotel by yourself.<br />
Unfortunately this is what happened to me--I didn't discover the better option till the next day.The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-11296255190930607722013-11-13T11:54:00.004-06:002017-01-08T09:20:37.038-06:00SOUTH INDIA<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-V_pSP7F1xHrjySx5gW05GI3yra8A6Mhs1KhWwRXKwmSMoBhxLrrREfcEfSIt_2ai8P0YkFvVa7MUG5pzsYWWlzYp2By5egi-BuXwpsvFFmWdSy7GIdyX5WhcuRBHj41pXFT6px9QIDA/s1600/IMG_3098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-V_pSP7F1xHrjySx5gW05GI3yra8A6Mhs1KhWwRXKwmSMoBhxLrrREfcEfSIt_2ai8P0YkFvVa7MUG5pzsYWWlzYp2By5egi-BuXwpsvFFmWdSy7GIdyX5WhcuRBHj41pXFT6px9QIDA/s400/IMG_3098.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">January 2013: Tamil Nadu<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null"> </a>and a taste of Kerala <o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We two big white guys were greeted warmly all over Tamil Nadu.
I can’t think of another place where I felt so welcome. The temples will amaze
you, the food is excellent, there’s some lovely palm tree/rice paddy landscape
between the honking, squealing, vibrating towns and cities. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our trip was 25 days. I tried to keep travel time between
hotels under 3 hours, and stay at least 2 nights in each place. We traveled by
public bus and private car with driver (never think of renting your own car).
Bus fares are startlingly cheap—about 30 cents per hour of travel time. Private
cars (we always looked for the old fashioned and comfortable Ambassadors)
ranged from $10 to<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>$15/hour of driving
time. Remember if you’re going one way, you must calculate the return expenses.
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We began in <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Chennai,</b>
then on to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pondecherry, Chidambaram, Kombakonam,
</b>(morning drive to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Gangakondaicholapuram)
Tanjore</b>, with stops at <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Swamamalai</b>
and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Darasuram </b>en route to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trichy</b>. We splurged at the Bengala
Hotel in <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Karaikudi</b> (Chettinad
region), spent 4 days in <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Madurai, </b>then
drove up<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>a thousand curves to reach <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Kodaikanal</b>, a hill station—the only
place we didn’t like much on this trip. A 10-hour car trip (not recommended)
got us to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Kochi/Ernakulum</b> from
Kodaikanal, a soft landing in Kerala, our final stop in India. The Chennai to
Madurai portion of this itinerary worked very well. Madurai is a big hub with
good connections.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Finding hotels: We wanted flexibility, so we only made reservations
for our late arrival in Chennai and at the Bengala (it fills up). Otherwise
we’d just arrive and look for a place up to $60 a night, but we often spent
half that. Hotels at all prices vary greatly—one can by a filthy sty, the next
clean and simple. Always check out a few. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Visit temples after dark as well as in daylight—two very
different worlds.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anyplace you arrive in the mid-day sun will seem awful. Wait
till sundown to pass judgment.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Chennai </b>is a
rough start for a pleasure trip. The center of town in mid-day heat is onerous,
the noise and traffic require all your attention. After much research, I chose
to stay in <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Mylapore</b>, a quieter
neighborhood in the south near the big <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Kapaleeshwarar
temple</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also liked the tranquil
Ramkrishna Mutt Temple nearby.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We stayed at <a href="http://www.executivecomfort.com/">www.executivecomfort.com</a>
in Mylapore. The hotel was comfortable, if a bit bland—very helpful owners. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you want to stay in the thick of downtown, the Galaxy
Guest House was cheap and clean (21/9 Tippu Street, Mount Road (near Ellis
Street).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.storytrails.in/">www.storytrails.in</a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Storytrails offers a good tour of Mylapore. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We passed by <b>Mamallapuram</b>, south of Chennai, but many have
recommended it. If you really didn’t want to deal with big city Chennai—you can
skip it if your time is limited--you can get directly from the airport to
Mamallapuram.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took a comfortable bus (meaning separate seats, not
benches) to Pondicherry (3 hours). Be sure you check bus schedule carefully—it
appears there might be 2 stations, one for funkier buses.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bus tip: avoid the end seat—half your butt gets pushed off.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pondicherry </b>was
controlled by the French until the 1950’s and they left many colonial buildings
near the beach that are slowly being turned into hotels, shops, restaurants,
and homes for expats. It felt like a work in progress. Known as ‘la ville
blanche’, it is pretty and quiet and has some lovely places to stay. We left
after one night and moved to the grittier ‘ville noir’ which we enjoyed more.
This is a good town for bike riding ($1 a day) and a visit to an <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2274819827457731616#www.franco-indian-ayur.com">Ayurvedic spa.</a> We biked the coast road
north a few miles and felt like we’d entered rural India. We were struck by the
post-apocalyptic Botanical Garden—truly odd. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We stayed one night at the lovely <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2274819827457731616#www.leshibiscus.in">Les Hibiscus</a>, and 3 more at the <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2274819827457731616#www.hotelcorbelli.com">Hotel Corbelli</a>, in the midst of the lively
downtown area. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We ate 3 times at <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Virundhi</b>,
Chetty Rd. 85, just off MG Road—a food highlight of our trip.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The bus to our next stop, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Chidambaram</b>, took about 2.5 hours in an uncomfortable vehicle. I
decided my limit for bus travel (unless I could guarantee a real seat, not
always available here) was three hours—for anything longer I’d spring for a car
& driver. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Chidambaram </b>is
famous for the Nataraja Temple, devoted to Shiva the dancer. The 6pm puja
ceremony was our first, unforgettable foray into Hindu ritual, where religion
and theater mix so perfectly.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What I enjoyed most in Chidabaram was walking the streets of
the residential areas outside the temple walls. It was where I first
encountered the crazy contemporary houses I took so many photos of. <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/104722146490116474060/ArchitectureTamilNadu">https://picasaweb.google.com/104722146490116474060/ArchitectureTamilNadu</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We stayed at the Hotel Saradharam, <a href="http://www.hotelsaradharam.co.in/">http://www.hotelsaradharam.co.in/</a>
which is probably your best bet here. The shampoo was amazing!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Kumbakonam </b>is funky
but<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>appealing, and boasts several
impressive temples. We stayed at the Athityaa Hotel on the main road—not great,
but we didn’t see many options here. We later found the Rayas Hotel, which
looks like a better bet. <a href="http://www.hotelrayas.com/">http://www.hotelrayas.com/</a>.
Don’t neglect a walk around the neighborhoods beyond the temples.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We hired a driver for half a day, stopping at <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Darusaram </b>and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Swamimalai</b> temples en route to Tanjore.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tanjore (Thanjavur) </b>was
the only stop I did not much care for, although the massive <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Brihadishwara Temple </b>is worth a visit
(less so the Royal Palace, unless you’re a big Chola bronze fan). Stay at the
Hotel Gnanam.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trichy
(Tiruchuchirippalli) </b>is in two parts, about 5 miles apart. The guidebooks
lead you to Trichy Junction where buses arrive—lots of hotels, but it’s an
awful area. We stayed one night and moved to the old town. The Rock Fort (for
the views), Sri Ranganathaswamy and Srirangam temples are the big sights here.
But I fell for Trichy walking through small back alley neighborhoods. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Big Bazaar Road</b> between Rock Fort and
Ghandi market has dozens of small roads leading off both ways—explore here. It
was the highlight of the trip. Also visit <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Hazrat
Nathervali Dargah</b> (Muslim shrine)—another great area to walk around. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hotels: if you’re stuck at Trichy Junction, stay at the
Femina. We stayed at the <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2274819827457731616#www.hotelsathyam.co.in">Hotel Royal Sathyam</a>
in the old town, rooms a bit small, but good choice (there isn’t much), funny
exterior.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Karaikudi (Chettinad
region): </b>I’d read about the unusual architecture here—thousands of mansions
built by rich merchants about a century ago, now in varying states of neglect.
Our splurge stay (bill came to about $200/day with everything) at <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2274819827457731616#http://www.thebangala.com/">The Bengala</a> was worth it. Take the house
tour with Mina and see where the hotel’s owner lives. It’s known for its food,
which was very good, but I felt they must have toned it down for foreigners. Wandering around the residential streets behind the hotel was a highlight. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Madurai: </b>Do not
miss the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Sri Meenakshi Temple</b>—we
went back 4 times, as it’s always a changing show. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Be sure to go after dark!</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
spent 5 nights in Madurai and walked a lot of the city, which I am happy to
know but it can be grey. Best walking streets are east of the temple in the
spice market area. Recommended excursion: Thirupparankundram<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Subramanya) temple is 8Km out of town.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Most of the inexpensive hotels are clustered in one area,
and there are good restaurants here, too. I checked out 4 hotels from LP and
Rough Guide and the <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2274819827457731616#www.goldenpark.co.in">Golden Park</a> won out. A
bit upscale choice would be the Madurai Residency or the Royal Court Madurai.
Have drinks (but not food) on the rooftop bar of the Hotel Supreme, or the
wacky basement sci-fi lounge.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Kodaikanal: </b>A
driver took us to this hill town. Beautiful views (lots of haze), but the town
is a dump. Forget it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One mistake: a 10-hour car ride (they told us 7) from
Kodaikanal to Ernakulum. It was hard to figure out where to break up the trip.
Next time I’d choose Munnar or Thrissur, or fly somewhere from Madurai.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ernakulum / Ft.
Kochin<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kerala felt like ‘India Light’ after Tamil Nadu. It’s calmer,
quieter, cleaner, a bit less exciting and not so exuberantly friendly. The
capital of Kerala is divided in parts strewn over a large bay connected by
frequent ferry service. We spent 3 days in Ernakulum, the newer, less touristy
side, and 3 days in Ft. Cochin, which has lots of boutique hotels, shops and
restaurants.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In Ernakulum, We stayed at the Manak Lodge, cheap and central, on
Shanmugham Road near the tourist office. We saw this nice homestay in a quiet
residential area of Ernakulum—<a href="http://www.nyasaresidency.com/">http://www.nyasaresidency.com</a>
which I would probably choose next time. The Abad Hotel on M.G. Road was
recommended by fellow travellers who knew the town. <a href="http://www.abadhotels.com/">www.abadhotels.com</a><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ernakulum has better Indian food, the excellent Kerala
Folklore Museum, and a Kathakali dance theater. It’s not particularly
beautiful, but it feels like a ‘real’ city as opposed to Ft. Kochin, which is pretty
touristy, although charming. Through the tourist office here we arranged a
backwaters tour in a small wooden pole boat (there were 4 other tourists on the
boat, from Calcutta)—wonderful! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Good food at Ceylon Bake House on M.G.Road—we went twice.
The Grand Hotel has a famous restaurant, but we were not overly impressed—except
with the swanky crowd.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The sights in Ft. Kochin pale in comparison with those of
Tamil Nadu (more Christian churches than Hindu temples here), but the place is
charming and peaceful—another planet after Tamil Nadu. Be sure to rent a bike
and ramble. Go shopping (block print fabric items) at Anokhi. .<a href="http://www.anokhi.com/">http://www.anokhi.com/</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’ll find good bookstores here too.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hotel in Kochin: Spencer Home (I didn’t stay here, but
checked out several places and it looked best in the $40-60 range). There are
several 5-star places in town.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>IMPORTANT: </b>The airport is an hour from Ft. Cochin, without traffic. —it’s closer to Ernakulum—so leave plenty of time to get there.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Links to our photos</b>: <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/104722146490116474060/albums/5843173600112635313?banner=pwa&authkey=CPnD98rh5bDfzgE">https://plus.google.com/photos/104722146490116474060/albums/5843173600112635313?banner=pwa&authkey=CPnD98rh5bDfzgE</a><br />
<br />
and: <b><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/104722146490116474060/ArchitectureTamilNadu" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">https://picasaweb.google.com/<wbr></wbr>104722146490116474060/<wbr></wbr>ArchitectureTamilNadu</a></b><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Tabla normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44bjDpbI7cSNtOtVVSxhGsWjCNTRtBQK-JK6ZcAbZ0alL-HNWeWsTk9CLQrhY3y53cKYuPugpfDshGd-v3Mrm3N2M8CuSjdMSLE_7yxGGXkYgca2-I6tf3W0ZD-uXFsWEhxQq0xu-o3A/s1600/IMG_2927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4Ja38FNDH3jQI0zelKnwFJdjPt5C-CsAlxFgXaG4xXIBoC6zlHAwTYqNvNYPWKq1hQVCzAw9ljyKFQBOo3-BeGuEjOCOpgvyYh6yZzWt43Zk7jQDOUybbG_EmXlpKF0OWWHf9yZdkkc/s1600/IMG_2919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4Ja38FNDH3jQI0zelKnwFJdjPt5C-CsAlxFgXaG4xXIBoC6zlHAwTYqNvNYPWKq1hQVCzAw9ljyKFQBOo3-BeGuEjOCOpgvyYh6yZzWt43Zk7jQDOUybbG_EmXlpKF0OWWHf9yZdkkc/s400/IMG_2919.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-35344546866095527602013-11-10T18:46:00.000-06:002013-11-10T18:46:04.633-06:00MERIDAThe offer from Interjet airlines was too good to pass up--1200 pesos round trip to Merida.<br />
(Sign up on their website <a href="http://www.interjet.com.mx/">www.interjet.com.mx</a> to receive notifications of sales.)<br />
I had visited once before, about 15 years ago, and had a so-so time--Nick was down with a<br />
miserable cold, the weather was stifling, and the main square was full of bulldozers ripping the<br />
place apart. This time was better.<br />
<br />
Friends had offered us the use of their house, just three blocks from the main plaza. Over the past 10 years (mostly) foreigners have been buying up old, often abandoned, houses and fixing them up (see <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/12/travel/12next.html?pagewanted=all">NYTimes article</a>). Staying at their lovely home, with its 18-foot ceilings, tiled floors, beautiful old woodwork, and small pool was the highlight of the trip. You can find rentals on <a href="http://www.airbnb.com/">www.airbnb.com</a> and <a href="http://www.vrbo.com/">www.VRBO.com</a>. Get one with a pool--we jumped in every time we got home.<br />
<br />
Walking around looking at old architecture is my favorite thing, and Merida has several lovely plazas to explore--don't miss Calle 64 between La Ermita and the St. Juan churches. There is a weekly house tour (it started the week after our trip!)--see link:<a href="http://www.meridaenglishlibrary.com/tours.htm"> http://www.meridaenglishlibrary.com/tours.htm</a>.<br />
Watch out for the traffic here--it felt more oppressive than Mexico City, as cars and buses speed through the narrow streets.<br />
<br />
We went to the new <a href="http://granmuseodelmundomaya.com/v1/">Gran Museo del Mundo Maya</a>--big disappointment. The building, inconveniently located in the far north of the city (cabs are expensive here) is impressive, but the collection is second-rate, at best, and the museum design is overbearing--lots of computer screens to touch and recorded voices in every room babbling on. I hated it. The Anthropology Museum (Paseo de Montejo and Calle 43) has a better (although small) collection of Mayan artifacts and the setting, in a old mansion, is impressive. See: <a href="http://www.yucatantoday.com/en/topics/museums-merida">http://www.yucatantoday.com/en/topics/museums-merida</a><br />
<br />
Of course we went to the<a href="http://www.yucatantoday.com/en/topics/fabulous-food-merida-s-mercado"> market,</a> as we always do, on the first day. It's not far from the main square<br />
(corner of calles 56A & 67). You'll find some intriguing Yucatecan antojitos here like <i>colados</i> (a creamy tamale), <i>paunchos</i>, and <i>salutes</i>. People are friendly.<br />
<br />
Day trips: We rented a car (there are lots of agencies in the centro--500 pesos a day) and drove to Valladolid where we spent the night at the comfy old <a href="http://www.mesondelmarques.com/index.html">El Meson de Marques</a>, right on the main plaza. It's <i>pueblo magico</i>, lovely if a bit dull. It's near Chichen Itzá, another disappointment, due to the presence of trinket sellers everywhere--right up to the ruins themselves. We had a much better Mayan ruin experience at <a href="http://balam/">Ek Balam</a>, about 30 minutes north of Valladolid. On our previous trip we had been to Uxmal, which I would recommend (unless they've trashed that one, too).<br />
<br />
The other highlight was taking a refreshing dip in a <a href="https://www.google.com.mx/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=680&q=Ek+Balaam&oq=Ek+Balaam&gs_l=img.12..0i10i24.1615.1615.0.4580.1.1.0.0.0.0.164.164.0j1.1.0....0...1ac.2.31.img..0.1.164.jrCjDnsU1AY#hl=en&q=cenote&tbm=isch">cenote</a>--there are many all over the Yucatan, just keep an eye out for signs.<br />
<br />
Closer to Merida--less than one hour--is <a href="https://www.google.com.mx/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=680&q=izamal+yucatan&oq=Izamal&gs_l=img.1.2.0l7j0i5j0i10i24j0i24.972.972.0.3091.1.1.0.0.0.0.193.193.0j1.1.0....0...1ac.2.31.img..0.1.193.lnQmhRfpYRc"><b>Izamal</b></a>, a beautiful colonial town where every building is painted a rich yellow ochre.<br />
<br />
Nick was working on this trip. His food tips will be on <a href="http://www.chowzter.com/">www.chowzter.com </a> soon.<br />
I enjoyed the food at <a href="http://www.lachayamaya.com/">Chaya Maya </a>(two branches--the one near Plaza Santa Lucia is in a pretty old house). By far the best meal I had was at <a href="http://www.los-dos.com/">Los Dos cooking school</a>. We had a special invitation to lunch after class--not something the general public can do. But judging by what I had, and the happy reaction of the students I met, I would recommend taking a class here.<br />
The high end restaurant <a href="http://www.kuukrestaurant.com/">Kuuk</a>, was recommended but we ran out of time. Likewise <a href="http://www.rosasandxocolate.com/">Rosas y Xocholate</a>.<br />
<br />The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-10897242563544798982013-09-18T15:23:00.001-05:002013-09-18T15:38:10.058-05:00SICILY (May 2013)<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">SICILY (+ Rome & Naples), May 2013</span></b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span lang="ES-TRAD">Rome, Naples, Palermo, Monreale, </span></b><b style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span lang="ES-TRAD">Trapani, Marsala, Erice, Segasta, Calascibetta, Piazza Armerina, Caltagirone, Vizzini, Ragusa, Modica, Siracusa, Catania</span></b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPyECt2Z1DqLJ5RD28wQ_07qzXZ5tqv20AidfOE4j2mzHLxgKp7_AMuy29aPuxyj8evYo-GlGS7i08Rb02u7sP_EnwP26OcOo7gK7SNr1ONCUBpXKN7b3DypFUzXthRTO3lhiCWA3-jE/s1600/sicily.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPyECt2Z1DqLJ5RD28wQ_07qzXZ5tqv20AidfOE4j2mzHLxgKp7_AMuy29aPuxyj8evYo-GlGS7i08Rb02u7sP_EnwP26OcOo7gK7SNr1ONCUBpXKN7b3DypFUzXthRTO3lhiCWA3-jE/s320/sicily.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></b></div>
PHOTOS: <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/104246863253554777215/albums/5883788735589564705?banner=pwa">https://plus.google.com/photos/104246863253554777215/albums/5883788735589564705?banner=pwa</a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></b>
<b><span lang="ES-TRAD">Rome:</span></b><span lang="ES-TRAD"> We found a good, inexpensive B&B just next to the train
station.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD"><a href="http://www.budgetplaces.com/offer/detail/?establishment_id=24999&checkin=2013-05-31&checkout=2013-06-01&guests=2">http://www.budgetplaces.com/offer/detail/?establishment_id=24999&checkin=2013-05-31&checkout=2013-06-01&guests=2</a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We invested a few euros in a Rome bus map
and were glad we did. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">If you want to see the incredible Villa
Borghese, you MUST get a ticket on-line, preferably months ahead—we missed out!
But we went to the Villa Barberini at opening time (9am) and had the place to
ourselves. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Restaurants: La Campana (near Piazza
Navona)—try the <i>animele</i>
(sweetbreads).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Trattoria Trilussa, a bit pricey, but
excellent, in Trastevere. Also Pizzeria Renella for great pizza by the slice
(they cut what you want from a rectangular pizza and charge by weight).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Giolitti has some of the best gelato in
town (and everyone knows it!).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We spent one night in Rome, then took the
train to <b>Naples</b> for 3 nights. What a
dump! The centro histórico has some lovely plazas, but it’s all pretty grubby
and grafitti covered. Other than the opera house, not much of it impressed me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Buy a bus/train pass—we made much use of
it (same goes for Rome).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Take the cable car to Vomero to see the
fancy neighborhood. <u>Don’t miss</u> the <i>Museo
Nazionale </i>to see all the loot from Pompeii.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We took the <b>overnight sleeper train</b> to Palermo. Beware of scammers in the
station that will tell you the train is cancelled.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="ES-TRAD">Palermo</span></b><span lang="ES-TRAD">: I found Palermo surprisingly quiet, clean and orderly—not what
I’d expected (Naples actually looks like my idea of Sicily). We loved our
airbnb rental, great location overlooking the very pretty plaza San Domenico.
Have drinks on the <b>terrace of the
Rinascente department store</b>, just across from our apartment.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD"><a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/46332"><span lang="ES" style="color: #004abb; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/46332</span></a></span><span lang="ES" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We visited all the open fruit and veg.
markets in Palermo—by far the best is <b>Ballaro.</b>
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">The <b>Chiesa
di Santa Caterina</b> is one of the few churches with an entry fee (2
euros)—well worth it!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We rented a car in Palermo for 8 days. Don’t
miss the stunning cathedral at <b>Monreale,</b>
about an hour outside Palermo. From there we drove to <b>Trapani, </b>a lovely, upscale place (the old part anyway)—we stayed
two nights.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Nearby <b>Erice, </b>an ancient rock-built hill town<b>,</b> was the <b>real highlight </b>here.
A day in each town is enough, but Erice seems like a place one might stay for a
while just to absorb the atmosphere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We also went to <b>Marsala</b> from Trappani. It’s clean and lovely, but only if you have
extra time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We travelled all the way from Trapani to
Caltagironi in one day—the roads are good.
We arrived before dark, but with more time I would have preferred to
stay in <b>Cefalú.<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="ES-TRAD">Segesta</span></b><span lang="ES-TRAD">: Not far from Trapani are some of the best preserved Greek ruins
anywhere—small site, but lovely. The wildflowers in May there were beyond
anything I’ve seen anywhere in the world. The views of the surrounding
hillsides are superb. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">En route we stopped at <b>Calascibetta</b>, right next to bigger and
better known <b>Enna.</b> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">It’s an easier stop if you’re just
driving through, but with more time I would have stayed a night at Enna.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We stayed 2 nights in <b>Caltagirone</b> and visited the imposing
Roman mosaics at <b>Piazza Armerina</b> as
a day trip. I would skip Caltagirone and
stay in the old part of Piazza Armerina, which is charming—we wish we had. Be
prepared for tourist hordes at the Roman ruins—annoying, but worth it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="ES-TRAD">Vizzini
</span></b><span lang="ES-TRAD">made a lovely coffee stop en route to <b>Ragusa</b> where we stayed 2 nights. Ragusa
Ibla is the old, lovely part, but a bit precious and touristy for me. Our splurge
meal at El Duomo (75 euros each) was memorable and worth the price.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Tel. 0932-651-265 <a href="http://www.ristoranteduomo.it/">www.ristoranteduomo.it</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">We stopped at <b>Modica </b>en route to Siracusa. It was one of the livelier small towns
we saw, if not the most picturesque (read: a bit more real). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">The old part of <b>Siracusa</b> is super clean, lovely but quite touristy. For some it
would be a highlight-- I was ready to leave after two hours. Don’t miss the
outdoor morning market—one of the best in Sicily. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="ES-TRAD">Catania:</span></b><span lang="ES-TRAD"> We stayed 4 nights here and loved it—my favorite place in Sicily.
We weren’t crazy about our airbnb rental here, but saw a few other places that
looked good. It’s a walking town, so it helps to have a central location:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD"><a href="http://www.eolobedandbreakfast.com/">www.eolobedandbreakfast.com</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD"><a href="http://www.bbcrociferi.it/">http://www.bbcrociferi.it</a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">The Bellini house museum was
disappointing, but <u>don’t miss</u> the <b>Palazzo
Bizcari</b>, where the prince himself gives the tour of this faded but fabulous
palace. It’s free, but you must
reserve—go to the tourist office near the main plaza. Read <b>Lampedusa’s ‘The
Leopard’</b> about the decline of Sicilian nobility after the unification of
Italy—the palace will provide a wonderful visual setting for this <u>must-read</u>
book. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Catania has an international airport.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<br />
<br />The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-60666829008491902832012-11-20T20:28:00.003-06:002015-04-05T13:53:33.610-05:00LISBONBe sure to get a day pass for all public transportation--metro, buses, trams. There are vending machines in the metro. 5 euros a day--well worth it. The <b>no. 28 tram </b>is the 'tourist route'--take it end to end.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Casa de Alentejo</b>, Restaurant and private social club. Fantastic moorish-inspired interiors and tiled walls. The food is good enough--we liked the <i>bacalao spiritual</i>. <a href="http://www.casadoalentejo.pt/">http://www.casadoalentejo.pt/</a><br />
<br />
Frank Bruni of the NYTimes writes about how he fell in love with Lisbon--<br />
<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/27/travel/how-i-fell-for-lisbon.html?pagewanted=all">http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/27/travel/how-i-fell-for-lisbon.html?pagewanted=all</a><br />
<br />
And here's his list of not-to-miss restaurants <a href="http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/05/27/travel/4-lisbon-restaurants-not-to-miss.html">http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/05/27/travel/4-lisbon-restaurants-not-to-miss.html</a><br />
<br />
We followed his tip and had drinks at the rooftop bar of the <b><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Hotel+do+Chiado,+Rua+Nova+do+Almada,+Lisbon,+Portugal&hl=en&sll=19.441937,-99.1566&sspn=0.011412,0.019011&oq=Hotel+do+Chiado&hq=Hotel+do+Chiado,+Rua+Nova+do+Almada,+Lisbon,+Portugal&t=m&z=15">Hotel do Chiado</a> </b>(next to FNAC)--great views!<br />
<br />
<b>Our friend Ada's restaurant tip</b>: Sinal Vermelho, R. das Gáveas, 89, Barrio Alto, tel. 213-461-252The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-64396273731356422042012-07-16T15:51:00.001-05:002012-07-17T16:46:25.198-05:00BUDAPEST & KRAKOWBUDAPEST<br />
<br />
Muveszeti Szalon es Kavezo
Szervita ter 5
www.rozsavolgyi.hu
Book and cd store with cafe/bar upstairs with live music from 7:30.
In central shopping area.<br />
<br />
Al-Amir, great Syrian food, Petofi Sandor Utca 18--central shopping area.
Open on Sundays when many other places close.<br />
<br />
Drop Shop Wine Bar, cool place to try Hungarian wines.
Balassi B. ut 27, not far from Parliament building, near river--last stop on no. 2 tram<br />
<br />
Public transport--get a daily, 3 or 5 day pass available at vending machines. Good for metro, trams, buses.<br />
<br />
Excellent meal: Bock Bistro, Erzsebet 43-49, tel 321-0340, reservation necessary<br />
<br />
KRAKOW<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold;">
Starka Restaurant</div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
Good food and an incredible selection of vodkas. The owner and the bartender (if they are still there) both speak English and can tell you about the vodkas.</div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<a href="http://starka.com.pl/eng/index.php" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">http://starka.com.pl/eng/<wbr></wbr>index.php</a></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold;">
Harris Jazz bar</div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
Right on the main square. I heard excellent jazz here. </div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<a href="http://www.harris.krakow.pl/" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">http://www.harris.krakow.pl/</a></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Wedel</span></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
The best hot chocolate I have ever drank in my life -- get the dark bittersweet:</div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<a href="http://www.cracow-life.com/eat/restaurants_details/1557-Pijalnia_Czekolady_E._Wedel" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">http://www.cracow-life.com/<wbr></wbr>eat/restaurants_details/1557-<wbr></wbr>Pijalnia_Czekolady_E._Wedel</a></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold;">
Pod Aniolami</div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
I liked the food here, but I have to remind you not to have high expectations:</div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
<a href="http://www.cracow-life.com/eat/restaurants_details/82-Pod_Aniolami" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">http://www.cracow-life.com/<wbr></wbr>eat/restaurants_details/82-<wbr></wbr>Pod_Aniolami</a></div>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-51400723748145368022012-07-16T15:51:00.000-05:002012-07-16T15:51:07.337-05:00PORTUGAL<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We flew direct from Mexico City to Madrid on Aeromexico and spent a few days there before renting a car (<a href="http://www.europcar.es/">Europcar</a>) and heading west. We drove around for 10 days, ending up in Santiago de Compostela, where we flew back on a cheap <a href="http://www.spanair.com/">Spanair</a> flight to Madrid, just in time for the annual <a href="http://www.escuelai.com/spanish_magazine/san_isidro_madrid-in.html">Festival de San Isidro</a>. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We stopped at the following places. (Highlights are in <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">bold type</b>, anything in parentheses is something you might skip.)<span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Ciudad Rodrigo, (Guarda), Viseu, Coimbra, (Aveiro),<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Porto</b>, Villa Real (we got a map here from the tourist office of a <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">driving route through the countryside</b>), <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Braga</b>,</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">(Tui), (Vigo), <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Santiago de Compostela</b>….and of course, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Madrid</b>, one of our favorite cities in the world (more on that later).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Click here to see photos of the trip.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Other places you might easily add to this itinerary are Avila, Segovia, and Pontevedra (all in Spain).<span> </span>We’d been to these places before so did not stop, but they’re</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">all worthwhile.<span> </span>Lisbon is easily a trip unto itself, but could be the starting point of this trip, moving north to Coimbra, etc.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span lang="EN-US">Hotel recommendations</span></u><span lang="EN-US">:<span> </span>Most of them were nothing special, but the <a href="http://www.hotelavenida.com.pt/">Hotel Avenida</a> in Viseu had a lot of charm.<span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In Coimbra, the <a href="http://www.casapombal.com/">Casa Pombal</a> guest house run by a Dutch woman was<span> </span>and had great views, although it was a steep hike uphill from the centro.<span> </span>The staff here was particularly helpful.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In Porto (one of the highlights of the trip) stay near the Plaza de los Aliados—we were too far away from the centro at Plaza de la Republica. These are the places I’d check out next time: <a href="http://www.ghparis.pt/index2.html">Paris</a> , <a href="http://www.gtahotels.com/hotels/hotel_residencial_dos_aliados_porto.htm">Aliados</a>,<span> </span>and <a href="http://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/peninsular.html?label=gog235jc;sid=3db70ed87ebe974defb49aeb05944fec">Peninsular</a> .</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span lang="EN-US">Food recommendations</span></u><span lang="EN-US">:<span> </span>We had a lot of so-so food in Portugal, but these 2 stood out. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In Coimbra, don’t miss the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bacalao com natas</i> at </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="ES" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">Petisqueira do Terreiro</span></b><span lang="ES"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">chef Conceiçao Carneiro</span><span lang="ES"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">Terreiro da Erva, Rua do Carmo 17-19</span><span lang="ES"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">tel. 918 928 796</span><span lang="ES"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">Restaurant in Oporto: <b>Adega S.Nicolau</b>, Rua S. Nicolau 1 tel. 222 008 232,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">near the waterfront where there are lots of restaurants.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-44801925171920526802012-06-08T09:45:00.002-05:002012-06-08T09:45:57.936-05:00BURMA BOAT RIDE<a href="http://www.perceptivetravel.com/issues/1109/myanmar.html">http://www.perceptivetravel.com/issues/1109/myanmar.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-92049132229002971882012-06-05T14:32:00.000-05:002017-01-09T15:42:15.813-06:00INDIA 11/2011<div>
November/December 2011: Amsterdam--Mumbai--Ahmedebad--Jaipur--Alwar--Delhi--Lucknow--Varanasi--Calcutta--Bangkok--Shanghai</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"></span></b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">Nick and I are not big 'sightseers'--I managed my first trip to India without seing the Taj Mahal! We prefer what our friend Kathy calls 'the museum of the streets', wandering through residential neighborhoods, back alleys, taking the metro when possible. </span></span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></b>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #222222; font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"></span></span><br />
<div class="im" style="color: #500050;">
<div>
<span style="color: #330033; font-family: "arial";">Click here to look at our photos of India:</span><br />
<div style="color: #500050; font-family: arial; font-size: 10pt;">
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="color: #0000cc; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/104246863253554777215/India2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCMqn_fPjqqWEwQE" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">India2011 | 104246863253554777215</a></span></span><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/104246863253554777215/India2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCMqn_fPjqqWEwQE" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank"><br /></a></div>
<div class="im" style="color: #500050;">
<div>
<span style="color: #0000cc; font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: #330033; font-family: "arial";">Nick's food photos of India and Shanghai:</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: #0000cc; font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/104246863253554777215/IndiaEating2011" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: small;">IndiaEating2011 | 104246863253554777215</span></a></span></span></span><br />
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/104246863253554777215/ShanghaiFood" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">ShanghaiFood | 104246863253554777215</a></span></span></span></div>
</div>
<span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<br />
<div>
<b>MISC.</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="http://www.indiamike.com/">http://www.indiamike.com/</a> all kinds of information</div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: "times new roman"; font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #0000cc; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.cleartrip.com/" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">http://www.cleartrip.com/</a> </span></span></b>for train tickets using a US credit card, flights too. Also try:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.makemytrip.com/">http://www.makemytrip.com/</a></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0000cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.yatra.com/">http://www.yatra.com/</a> For flights within India.</div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<a href="http://archive.neemranahotels.com/kesroli/index.html.htm?">www.neemranahotels.com</a> Old houses, palaces, forts, etc. turned into hotels--prices vary.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://hotelsinrajasthan.com/">http://hotelsinrajasthan.com/</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Driver from Jaipur, can meet you in Delhi: Jai (pronounced Jay), email <b>jai_sita_ram@yahoo.com.in </b>Be sure to negotiate money very clearly before (advice for all drivers)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=hp&biw=1267&bih=664&q=kareena+kapoor&gbv=2&oq=kareena+kapoor&aq=f&aqi=g10&aql=&gs_sm=s&gs_upl=907l907l0l2632l1l1l0l0l0l0l246l246l2-1l1l0">Kareena Kapoor</a>, voted Asia's sexiest woman for the 2nd time while we were there.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.shadi.com//">http://www.shadi.com</a> Website for arranged marriages</div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>MUMBAI</b></div>
<div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Hotels in Mumbai are expensive for what you get, 2x more than the rest of India. We stayed in 3 places. The best of the lot was <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.landmarkhotels.in">www.landmarkhotels.in </a>--in Fort area, near train station.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com.mx/Hotel_Review-g304554-d1738649-Reviews-Hotel_Moti_International-Mumbai_Bombay_Maharashtra.html">Hotel Moti International</a>--in Colaba. We did not stay there, but it looked good.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.residencyhotel.com/index.php">Hotel Residency,</a> good location in Fort, fully booked when we arrived.<br />
<br />
I had the card for this place: <a href="http://regenthotelcolaba.com/"> http://regenthotelcolaba.com/</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.realitytoursandtravel.com">www.realitytoursandtravel.com</a> Tour Asia's largest slum--don't miss this (they also offer other interesting sounding tours).</div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.bombayheritagewalks.com/index.php"><br /></a></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.bombayheritagewalks.com/index.php">http://www.bombayheritagewalks.com/index.php</a> Architectural walking tours</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Elephanta Island--closes at 6pm and the boat takes an hour, so plan accordingly.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
In Colaba, eat at simple veg. place Kamat (opposite Electric House) and get the </div>
<div>
<b>lemon ginger soda</b>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Mahesh Lunch Home, 8B Cowasji Patel Street (Fort area)--seafood</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Sher-e-Punjab Restaurant, 261 Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd., near main post office and train station.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.burrp.com">www.burrp.com</a> is a foodie website. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>AHMEDABAD</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Hotel Volga, acceptable option if you don't want to splurge on the MG house next door. (not too many choices here). <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.hotelvolga.in">www.hotelvolga.in</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.houseofmg.com">www.houseofmg.com</a>--fancy hotel and excellent 2 restaurants.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Take the Heritage Walk Tour offered by the Municipal Corporation (there's a private tour company that seems to offer the same thing for much more money). Begins daily at 8am at the Swaminarayan Mandir--just show up. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Don't miss the <b>Calico Museum </b>of textiles, amazing Art Deco mansion, must reserve: </div>
<div>
2786-8172</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Dada Hari Wav, step-well and temple, take taxi. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Food: Law Garden night market, walk to the end of the clothing stalls to find food--amazing textiles along the way. Be sure to try <i>pani puri</i>, little puff balls filled with chick peas and soup--eat in one bite!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>JAIPUR</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
Jaipur had more garbage on the streets than anywhere else we went. We mostly walked and walked and walked, visited few 'sights'. I would skip the City Palace--not that great, very touristy. Do visit the Jantar Mantar observatory next to it, however.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Bissau Palace Hotel--don't miss this one! <a href="http://archive.neemranahotels.com/kesroli/index.html.htm?">www.bissaupalace.com</a> Good location near the Chandpol Gate into the Old City. When you enter gate, take first left and wander through the residential neighborhoods--very interesting. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Next best choice: <a href="http://www.hotelroyalsheraton.com/">Hotel Royal Sheraton</a> (neither Royal or a Sheraton), good location within the walls of the Pink City, few western tourists. Be sure to walk around the residential area away from the tourist sights. Go for the more $$ rooms, others have no windows! The Venus Continental Restaurant just next door was good. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>ALWAR</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
Hire a car and driver to go from Jaipur to Alawar as the hotel is 18km from town in the middle of nowhere. Stop in <b>Abhaneri </b>on the way--great step-well, temple and village. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Stay at the Hill Fort Kesseroli, 14th C. fort now a hotel. Be sure to visit the village below. Magical! <a href="http://archive.neemranahotels.com/kesroli/index.html.htm?">http://archive.neemranahotels.com/kesroli/index.html.htm?</a></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
We found the town of Alwar charming. You can get a map from the tourist office near the train station. Walk from Hope Circle down Bajaja Bazar street which eventually takes you to the Sagar City Palace--you may want a guide here. The side streets north of Bajaja Bazar were wonderful. We took a public bus from the fort to town (very crowded) and got a policeman to help us get a cab back (about $10US).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<b>DELHI</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b><br />
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">We did not visit a lot of museums on this trip, but we loved the<a href="http://nationalcraftsmuseum.nic.in/"> Crafts Museum </a>(the inside part),</span></span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">esp. the textiles. Much more interesting than the National Museum.</span></span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b><br />
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Came across a brochure for rickshaw tours of Old Delhi (we spent 2 full days there) that looks interesting:</span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b>
<br />
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><a href="http://www.wheninindia.com/">www.wheninindia.com</a> Old Delhi is chaotic, crumbling--totally fascinating!</span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b>
<br />
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b>
<br />
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Don't miss the Jama Masjid mosque in Old Delhi. We found the Purana Qila better than the Red Fort if you need to choose. </span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b><br />
<div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><a href="http://hauzkhasvillage.in/">Hauz Khas Village</a> is an area south of central Delhi (20 min. cab ride) that has some wonderful old Muslim ruins and chic shops. </span></span></b></div>
</div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b><br />
<div style="display: inline !important;">
<div style="display: inline !important;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Great Kashmiri shawls at Studio 5, 30 Hauz Khas Village (inside)--we never saw anything this good elsewhere.<a href="http://www.weavers.co.in/">www.weavers.co.in</a></span></span></b></div>
</div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b>
<br />
<div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></span></b></div>
</div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b>
<br />
<div style="display: inline !important;">
<div style="display: inline !important;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Also in HK Village saw a stunning bedspread---too heavy to lug around since it was the beginning of our trip--at Mi Casa</span></span></b></div>
</div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span></span></b>
<br />
<div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">at #9A, Ground Floor Bistro Complex, N.D.-16 (ask around to find it--the area is small).</span></span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Tana-Bana is a little shop specializing in antique textiles, 2 Hauz Khas Village (mobile 981-188-1847)--impressive!</span></span></b></div>
</div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></span></b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Jyoti Mahal Guest House, <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.jyotimahal.net">www.jyotimahal.net</a>--excellent choice, recommended to us by a French guide book writer (We returned here in 2013 and were less impressed. Moved here and liked it better:<br />
<a href="http://www.metropolistouristhome.com/">www.metropolistouristhome.com</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Veda restaurant, chic $$$, 27 connaught circus, www.vedarestaurants.com</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
South Indian food: Saravana Bhavan, Janpath 46 (nr. Connaught Place)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The Shop, <a href="http://www.theshopindia.com/our-stores">http://www.theshopindia.com/our-stores</a>, best block-print fabric bedspreads, etc.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Anokhi, 32 Khan Market, more great block print fabric stuff</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Wenger & Co. great old bakery A-16 Connaught Place</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We took the metro a lot--very crowded, but better for women as they get their own car.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Best Delhi food blog <a href="http://eatanddust.com/">http://eatanddust.com/</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>LUCKNOW</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Take the guided tour of the old city (Heritage Walk) offered by the state tourism board. Ask for Ashish--he was great.<br />
The office is at the <a href="http://www.indiamike.com/india-hotels/hotel-gomti-lucknow-h2360/">Gomti Hotel</a>, 6 Sapru Marg (the hotel looked like a good option too).<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>VARANASI</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"></span></b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="display: inline !important; font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">Be sure to spend as much time as possible walking along the ghats. You'll be bugged by people selling things (boat rides,explanationsof cremation rites, e.g.) in a few spots.</span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"></span></b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"></span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">Wandering through the gallis (narrow twisting alleyways) is great--get a guide if you're not comfortable by yourselves. We just got lost and asked for the 'Ganga' whenever we needed to orient ourselves. The area is full of street markets, temples, cows, vendors of all sorts and interesting architecture--no tourists.</span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"></span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">The 6am boat ride they seem to push is totally unnecessary. Go later. But don't just settle for seeing the ghats by boat as I think many tourists do.</span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"></span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">Milk products are excellent in India. If you see big bowls of whipped cream, get some! It’s called<i>maleyu </i>or something like that. Excellent lassi, too. If you can find this one in the photo it really <i>is</i>the best in the world. I think it was in the alleyways behind the main burning ghat, Manikarnika--a good area to explore.</span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;"></span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
</span></b>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: small;">We ate twice at the<a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com.mx/Restaurant_Review-g297685-d1203743-Reviews-New_Keshari_Ruchikar_Byanjan-Varanasi_Uttar_Pradesh.html" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank"> New Keshari Ruchikar Byanjan</a> restaurant (upstairs) on Dasawamedh Ghat Road. Try the tandoori cauliflower. Otherwise we often ate at hole-in-the-wall places. Had a good lunch at the Taj.</span></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We did not find Sarnath, a Buddhist village outside Varanasi, all that great—only if you have extra time.</span></span></div>
</span></b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Kedareswar Guest House, <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.kedareswarguesthouse.com">www.kedareswarguesthouse.com</a>. Excellent choice. Book on Agoda.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Keshari Ruchikar restaurant (2nd floor, Dashashwemedh Rd. not far from ghat). We went twice. Try the Tandoori stuffed ghobi (cauliflower)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>KOLKATA</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span><br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Kolkata is fabulous and surprising--not at all what I'd expected. There are lots of sights in Kolkata and we didn't get to many of them, mostly because the street life was so exciting. We were out walking between 8 and 13 hours a day.</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
Stay at the<a href="http://www.bodhitreekolkata.com/"> Bodhi Tree Guest House</a>, Best choice in Kolkata, book on Agoda. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"></span><br />
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Click <a href="http://www.google.com/#hl=en&cp=4&gs_id=e&xhr=t&q=walking+tours+kolkata&qe=d2Fsaw&qesig=9cFTL0Vk7fum9bc_zUO-4Q&pkc=AFgZ2tnGAcBpCII-zPdga26zlFZLQBKx594NHx8jSmcDhzdljnb3FrVYWJgczfns_5GhQm_sKQpRWickrQUPODwBBZArKmjidQ&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&site=&source=hp&pbx=1&oq=walk&aq=0p&aqi=p-p1g3&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&fp=876e4119cb30b75&biw=1267&bih=664" target="_blank">here</a> to see what's on google for walking tours--we just did it ourselves, but in one day you might want help.</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">I would recommend you get a guide <u>without </u>a car, using taxis and public transport instead (you can't park easily anyway).</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Do take the metro, which is clean and orderly (women have their own seats in the middle of each car)--and then you can drop the line, "Something funny happened when I was on the metro last week in Calcutta" when you get home.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Also do take a rickshaw ride for an hour or two. They still have man-powered rickshaws--I never felt so heavy in my life!</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">There's also a wonderful old trolley system to ride.</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Based on this great book I found there, 'A Jaywalker's Guide to Kolkata' we started around the<b>Shyambazar </b>(an area called 5 points, busy market area), then went down <b>Rabindra Sarani </b>(you can visit Tagore's house on a side street).</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Go down <b>Pathuriagahata</b> street <wbr></wbr>where there are lots of old crumbling mansions.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Any guide should know these things and may have others to suggest, but from what I've checked out, this is one of the richest areas for 'old Calcutta' (i.e. north Calcutta) viewing. There's a<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Calcutta-Chitpur-Neighborhoods-Manish-Chakraborty/dp/3775721061/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324330142&sr=1-1" target="_blank">beautiful book</a> about it that you might want to check out (Chitpur Road of the title has been renamed Rabindra Sarani)</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Another interesting sight not far from all this is the Jain temple complex at <b>Pareshnath, </b>a sort of Hindu-Liberace experience.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial";"></span><div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">The other great Bengali meal we had was at<b> Oh!Calcutta</b>, in the Forum shopping mall, 4th floor, Elgin Road. Phone 2283-7161. But if you only have time for one go to Aaheli. Go hungry--the food is rich.</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">We went to the Botanical Gardens, but I was not that impressed (at it's far out of town). We tried to go to <b>Eliot Park </b>in the center of town, which looked lovely from the outside, but was closed when we arrived. They have something called a 'musical fountain' that sounded intriguing.</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">You don't need to spend much, if any, time at the New Market, which is full of touristy stuff and is suggested by most guides and books. Lots of pesky touts.</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">We had seen one of Mother Teresa's homes in Lucknow, so did not go in Kolkata, but I would recommend it.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span>
<br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">
</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-15242617065215027912012-01-03T12:49:00.002-06:002012-07-16T17:28:30.042-05:00BERLIN<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">BERLIN</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">TIPS</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
(April 2011)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Upon arrival at airport buy a <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">transportation pass</b> for the days you need.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We never went beyond Zone A, but if you plan to travel nearby (Potsdam, Charlottenberg Palace, e.g.) a Zone B ticket might be better. It works for all forms of public transport, including busy to/from airport. The public transport system is excellent. Pick up one of their good maps at the ticket booth. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The no. 100 bus does a good touristic route around the city. We often just hopped on a bus when we got tired of walking. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Check out the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">museum pass</b> good for most museums. Aside from the obvious biggies, we liked the Bauhaus museum.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We loved the<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Hotel Funk (</b>ask for room 12) old apartment, former home of silent movie actress Asta Nielsen, </span><span lang="ES"><a href="http://www.hotel-pensionfunk.de/"><span lang="EN-US">http://www.hotel-pensionfunk.de/</span></a></span><span lang="EN-US">. It’s one of the only old-time hotels left in Berlin.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We also stayed in a lovely shared apartment in Kreuzberg with an engaging couple from Madrid. Lots of good ones on<a href="http://www.airbnb.com/search"> http://www.airbnb.com</a></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">FOOD:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Berlin Food Blog: </b><a href="http://www.thewednesdaychef.com/">www.thewednesdaychef.com</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Borchardt</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, fancy restaurant (we didn’t eat here, but it looks amazing and $$$ if you want to splurge)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Augustiner</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, Charlottenstrasse 55, Mitte, old-style beer hall, good food & ambience.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Marjellchen</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, (our favorite) Mommsenstrasse 9, tel. 030-883-2676 in Charlottenberg—be sure to have the beet soup</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Markthalle</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, Pucklerstrasse 34, Kreuzberg <a href="http://www.blogger.com/(www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de">(www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de</a>),</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">homey place, good schnitzel, half-portions available…and recommended.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Rogacki</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, Wilmerdorferstrasse 145, Metro Bismarck</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Deli with amazing array of German specialties </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Food hall</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> at the KaDeWe department store, 6<sup>th</sup> floor (Wittenbergplatz)—a must!</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">BEST NEIGHBORHOODS FOR WALKING:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Schöneberg</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, a lovely walk: from the U train stop Nollendorfplatz walk south along</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Gleditschstrasse for a mile or so. <u>Barbarossastraße</u> was particularly pretty.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Charlottenberg </span></b><span lang="EN-US">is the fancy part of town (Ulandstrasse station)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">walk around Savignyplatz. Kurfurstendam is the main drag, with pretty side streets.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Kruezberg</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> is hip and young, full of international restaurants. </span>Oranienstrasse is a main drag, so wander from there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Mitte</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, central Berlin, Unter der Linden, not the loveliest part but has the</span>museums, opera house, big tourist spots. The music store Dussmann (Friedrichstrasse 90) has a huge selection of classical CDs.</div>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-27654394710992787792011-09-19T12:09:00.006-05:002012-07-16T17:23:02.076-05:00TURKEY May 2011We were just in Istanbul for 3 days this time, so not a lot to report beyond high prices.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
But I did find a few things I'd check out next time.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Magnaura Tours</b>. Unusual tours: neighborhoods, schools, markets</div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.magnauratours.com">www.magnauratours.com</a> Didn't use them, but it sounds interesting.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
HOTELS: </div>
<div>
<b>Galata</b> looked like the most interesting area to stay, but there are not a lot of options.</div>
<div>
I saw 2 new ones--I'd stay in one of these next time.</div>
<div>
<b>World House </b><a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.worldhouseistanbul.com">www.worldhouseistanbul.com</a></div>
<div>
and <b>Galata Life</b> <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.galatalifeistanbul.com">www.galatalifeistanbul.com</a><br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
FOOD:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Great old interior: <b>Neoclassic</b>, Istiklal Cad. 251, upstairs</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Sirit Seref,</b> <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.serefburyan.com">www.serefburyan.com </a> You'll need help finding this--it's near the Bozdogan aqueduct and the Fire Brigade Museum. The pilaf thing in a crust is great. Wander around this area after lunch, very interesting Kurdish neighborhood, no tourists.<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; line-height: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; line-height: 14px;">In Beyoglu try <a href="http://antiochiaconcept.com/en/iletisim.php">Antiocha</a>, Minare Sokak 21/A, Tel. 212 292 1100. </span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I loved the old <b>pudding houses</b> you see all over.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
MISC:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Lale Plak</b>, CD store with great selection of classical music--right at the top of the hill where the train stops</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-30960541356958677432011-02-24T17:34:00.005-06:002015-07-03T13:46:59.343-05:00ECUADOR (and Bogotá, Colombia)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:hyphenationzone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><img src="//img2.blogblog.com/img/video_object.png" style="background-color: #b2b2b2; " class="BLOGGER-object-element tr_noresize tr_placeholder" id="ieooui" data-original-id="ieooui" /> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Tabla normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">ECUADOR</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US"> (and Bogotá, Colombia) -- December 2010</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="ES-MX">BOGOTÁ</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-MX">We flew <a href="http://www.avianca.com/">Avianca</a> from DF to Quito. They allowed a free stopover, so we spent 3 nights there.</span><b><span lang="ES-MX"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="ES-MX"></span></b><span lang="EN-US">Bogotá seems to have overcome its reptuation as drug crime ridden capital of </span><span lang="EN-US">Latin America</span><span lang="EN-US">. There are lots of cops in the more touristy areas, but in between are miles of dreary low-rise concrete buildings. Although it was rainy and gray for our entire 3-day visit, I doubt this is a city that qualifies as beautiful even in full sun. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">But is has a lively feel, spiced with Caribbean influences like cumbia music wafting out of storefronts, or the waitress who asks, “¿Que quieres, mi cielo?” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The centro histórico is <b><a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&source=imghp&biw=1249&bih=600&q=La+Calendaria+bogota&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=">La Calendaria</a></b> which has an appealing mix of colonial and art deco architecure, and some top-class museums (don’t miss the Museo de Oro and and Botero Museum—even if you think you don’t like Botero). The whole zone was given a facelift in June 2011, with facades of many older buildings freshly painted in pastel colors. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-MX"><a href="http://www.vivatravelguides.com/south-america/colombia/bogota/la-candelaria/la-candelaria-restaurants/el-bolon-verde/">Bolón de Verde</a>, jazz club/restaurant. </span><span lang="EN-US">Totally hip little place up the hill in La Calendaria. Just off the Plazoleta de El Chorro de Quevedo. The area all around here is fun at night. There’s a great pastry shop on the plaza.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">‘Septimazo’is a bustling Friday night street fair in the centro. Fun for people watching.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>QUITO</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g294308-d1581562-Reviews-Hostal_Quito_Cultural-Quito.html">Hostal Quito Cultural</a>, (Calle Flores N4-160 y Chile, tel. 2288-084). Be sure to talk to the owner Alicia Vega, who is friendly and helpful. We loved this place. A bargain at $30 a night, with breakfast.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">A bit more upscale, <b>Hotel Quito</b>, <a href="http://www.hotelquito.com/">http://www.hotelquito.com/</a> is a remodelled 60’s hotel/spa on a hill with great views. The rooftop restaurant was surprisingly good and a bargain as well. It's in a residential neighborhood--you'll need to take taxis or the excellent public transport to get to most things.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b>Café Mosaico</b><span lang="EN-US"> (Manuel Samaniego N8-95 y Antepara, Itchimbía, tel. 2542-871), has great views of the city, excellent coffee and Greek food which we did not try, but looked promising.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US">La </span></b><b><span lang="EN-US">Compania</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US"> </span></b><b><span lang="EN-US">Church</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US">—</span></b><span lang="EN-US">don’t miss this baroque extravaganza.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b>Fuente de Vida Spa</b><span lang="EN-US"> (Vizcaya E 13-40 y Pontevedra, Esquina 9-1/2, Barrio La Floresta) offers all sorts of ‘detoxification’ therapies. We stumbled upon this place and I sat for a half hour with my feet in warm water as a little plugged-in device sucked the impurities in my body out through my toes. Worth the $15.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><b><span lang="EN-US">CUENCA</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US"></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US"></span></b><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US"> is a delightful town for just walking around and enjoying the architecure—a mix of everything from the last few centuries. It’s a quiet place without major tourist highlights. Friday seems to be the ‘big night out’, but otherwise the town square is fairly lifeless at night. The churches are lit up at night (and often full—it’s a very Catholic town). Check out the corner of Bolivar & Borrero at night, too—lovely architecure.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-weight: bold;">River walk</span>—the river is clean and the grassy banks are great for hanging out or a picnic lunch.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Museums</span>—If you like old pottery, the <b>Museo de Culturas Aborigenes</b> is worth a visit. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We found the old <span style="font-weight: bold;">Convento de las Conceptas</span> a bit dull—too many saints and virgins.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Instituto Nacional de Patrimonio Cultural</b>, Benigno Malo 6-40—go inside to see the murals in back.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Azogues</span>, This town was a day trip mentioned in our guidebook (Footprint) for its Saturday market, which wasn’t so different from the one in </span><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US">. The town is a big concrete pile, but the Bar El Che (Bolivar & Tenemaza) was worth a visit—a temple to Che Guevara.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US">Parque Nacional Cajas</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, <a href="http://www.etapa.com.ec/">www.etapa.com.ec</a> is not far from </span><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US">. We only saw it on the bus ride to </span><span lang="EN-US">Guayaquil</span><span lang="EN-US">, but it looked lovely. Some tourists got off the bus there, so I imagine any of the buses going to </span><span lang="EN-US">Guayaquil</span><span lang="EN-US"> can drop you off for a day of hiking. The scenery is gorgeous.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Baños</span>, a town with </span><span lang="EN-US">hot springs</span><span lang="EN-US"> was a 30-minute local bus ride away. We were disappointed with the big motel-like setting and the not-so-hot water. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<span lang="EN-US">FOOD AND LODGING</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US">Tiesto’s</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, Juan Jaramillo 7-34— this very popular restaurant serves local cuisine with flair. The giant shrimp were fantastic.<a href="http://www.tiestosrestaurante.com/"> http://www.tiestosrestaurante.com/</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US">Al Toque</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (at the corner of Benigno Malo & Simon Bolivar on the main plaza). Pastries and gelato. We went back three times for the chocolate/caramel/banana tart!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US">Café Eucalyptus</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, (Gran </span><span lang="EN-US">Colombia</span><span lang="EN-US"> 9-41) is a cozy place for a drink. It seems to be popular with the ex-pat crowd. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b>Café Austria</b>, (Benigno Malo 5-99 at Juan Jaramillo) excellent coffee. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Local markets</span>—there are 3 in town, worth visiting to see local produce and to eat at the food stalls. Roast pig and something called ‘encebollada’ (a fish dish) are the highlights here.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Chinese restaurant</span>, 11-26 Borrero near Lamar. <span lang="EN-US">You'll be ready for this after a week of Ecuadoran food. The Cantonese food here was surprisingly good, although we did not try the combination that the couple at the next table seemed to be enjoying—mayonaise and ketchup over fried rice, accompanied with orange soda.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b>Hostal Majestic</b>, Luis Cordero 11-29 (between Lamar & Sangurima, tel. <span lang="EN-US">(07) 284-3502) has old world charm and huge rooms for $42. After checking out about a dozen places in this price range, it was definitely the best. <a href="http://www.cuencacultural.com/h_majestic.htm">http://www.cuencacultural.com/h_majestic.htm</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold;">
<span lang="EN-US">MISC.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Calvin Trillin article on Cuenca </span><span lang="EN-US"></span><a href="http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/503109">http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/503109</a><span lang="EN-US"><br /><br />I found this on some blog, but not in time to try it--”</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: Tahoma;">Toward the end of my Spanish language school visit in 2005, I'd had the good fortune to meet Berta Vintimilla, who, along with her sister Patricia, runs what is considered the premier upmarket restaurant in Cuenca, <u>Villa Rosa”</u></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Cuenca ex-pat website:</span><br /><span lang="EN-US"> </span><a href="http://www.cuencahighlife.com/default.aspx"><span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"></span></a><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.cuencahighlife.com/default.aspx">http://www.cuencahighlife.com/default.aspx</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><a href="http://www.cuencahighlife.com/default.aspx"><span lang="EN-US"></span></a><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">GUAYAQUIL</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US"></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The bus ride from </span><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US"> to </span><span lang="EN-US">Guayaquil</span><span lang="EN-US"> (4-5 hours) takes you through some spectacular mountains before you reach the steamy jungle. It's not the most charming place on earth, but has a few things worth seeing--the malecón (waterfront promenade) and the old quarter up the hill, which has been spruced up nicely.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 100%;"><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ";">Hotel Doral, <a href="http://www.hdoral.com/">http://www.hdoral.com/</a> is centrally located and perfectly fine, if no bargain at $65 compared with prices in </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ";">Quito</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ";"> and </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ";">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ";">.</span></span></div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-63252546631957447692011-02-14T11:54:00.006-06:002011-05-04T11:10:14.691-05:00TRAVEL TIPSHere are some useful travel websites--<br /><br /><a href="http://www.contrariantraveler.com/messageboards.html">http://www.contrariantraveler.com/messageboards.html</a> various message boards<br /><br /><a href="http://www.seat61.com/" target="_blank">http://www.seat61.com/</a> great site for trains all over the world<br /><br /><a href="http://www.hostelz.com/" target="_blank">http://www.hostelz.com</a> hostels, etc.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.airbnb.com/" target="_blank">http://www.airbnb.com</a> hostels, rooms, etc.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.whichbudget.com/" target="_blank">http://www.whichbudget.com/</a> listing of budget airlines worldwide<br /><br /><a href="http://www.seatguru.com/">http://www.seatguru.com/</a> seating plans of airplanesThe Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-65482088567620240702011-01-11T15:53:00.008-06:002012-11-12T11:01:22.848-06:00MALAYSIA (Part 3)--PENANG & MALACCA<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:hyphenationzone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><img src="//img2.blogblog.com/img/video_object.png" style="background-color: #b2b2b2; " class="BLOGGER-object-element tr_noresize tr_placeholder" id="ieooui" data-original-id="ieooui" /> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Tabla normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">PENANG</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US"></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://images.google.com.mx/images?hl=es&um=1&sa=1&q=Penang&btnG=Buscar+im%25C3%25A1genes&aq=f&oq=&start=0"> Penang</a> was the highlight of </span><span lang="EN-US">Malaysia</span><span lang="EN-US">, gritty, complex, and steamy (like all of </span><span lang="EN-US">Malaysia</span><span lang="EN-US">, all the time). It has a vibrant Little India, enough colonial era architecture to warrant its selection as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it’s a center for <b>Nyonya cuisine</b>, a<span style="color: red;"> </span>mix of Chinese, Indian and Malaysian flavors. Hawker stalls and night markets are an important feature of life here. Once the sun sets and the city cools down a bit, it’s time to go out and eat. (Click <span style="color: red;">xxx</span> for a video of a night market food scene.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> The city has a run-down, soggy feel, but with its recent UNESCO designation, signs of economic uplift abound. Old Chinese shophouses are being restored, their fantastic 3-D ceramic decorations being made anew. The <a href="http://images.google.com/images?gbv=2&hl=en&sa=1&q=Khoo+Kongsi+&btnG=Search&aq=f&oq=&aqi=&start=0">Khoo Kongsi</a> Chinese clan temple (</span><span lang="EN-US">18 Cannon Square</span><span lang="EN-US">) is hidden within the streets of a charming area of the city, much of its colonial architecture still intact. The temple is the most extravagant of the many clan temples in <a href="http://www.zoom2see.com/2009/08/view-of-clan-jetties-in-from-channel.html">Penang,</a> evidence of the strong Chinese influence that defines Malaysian society.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> The <a href="http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=Pinang+Peranakan+Mansion+&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&oq=&aqi=">Pinang Peranakan Mansion</a> (29 Lebuh Gereja) and the <a href="http://images.google.com/images?gbv=2&hl=en&sa=1&q=Cheong+Fatt+Tze+House+&btnG=Search&aq=f&oq=&aqi=&start=0">Cheong Fatt Tze House</a> (14 Lebuh </span><span lang="EN-US">Leith</span><span lang="EN-US">) are two sumptuous houses of wealthy 19<sup>th</sup> century Chinese merchants. Their romantic link to the past was not lost on filmmaker Régis Wargnier who took advantage of </span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US">’s architectural bounty as background for the film <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0104507/">Indochine</a> with Catherine Deneuve. These homes offer an interesting look into </span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US">’s sumptuous past.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> Preparations for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diwali">Diwali</a>, the Indian festival of lights, were in full swing in </span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US">’s Little India neighborhood when we arrived. The streets were lined with stalls piled high<span style="color: red;"> </span>with silk scarves, copper bangles, sequined robes, incense, and lots of fried things to eat. A pulsing beat of Hindi pop music wafted through the damp air. Candy stalls, with rows of pastel colored coconut confections, tempted us on each block. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> The<span style="color: red;"> </span><a href="http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=komtar+penang&gbv=2&aq=0&oq=komtar&aqi=g1g-m1">Komtar Building</a>, </span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US">’s tallest, provides an eerie landmark in the city. Walking through it’s bleak shopping mall was a curious, dark thrill. The empty hallways and non-functioning escalators felt like a set for a post-nuclear disaster movie. It was the only place we could find internet, and you can catch buses to everywhere (including the airport) from its cave-like belly, so we ended up there frequently, drawn into its eerie black-hole space by necessity. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> <a href="http://images.google.com/images?gbv=2&hl=en&um=1&sa=1&q=Penang+Hill+&btnG=Search&aq=f&oq=&aqi=&start=0">Penang Hill</a> attracts tourists for the views and cooler air, but the highlight was the ride—a long, steep funicular, a wonder of engineering, enjoyable and just a little bit scary, like a ferris wheel. On the ride up we chatted with a group from </span><span lang="EN-US">Bahrain</span><span lang="EN-US">. Abdul, a<u><span style="color: red;"> </span></u>college student studying in Malacca, was<span style="color: red;"> </span>visiting with his family. After explaining that we were from </span><span lang="EN-US">Mexico</span><span lang="EN-US">, Abdul’s mother, aunt, and two sisters all started singing a jolly song in Arabic. “</span><span lang="EN-US">Mexico</span><span lang="EN-US">! </span><span lang="EN-US">Mexico</span><span lang="EN-US">!” they repeated after each verse, as they clapped and sang. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: red;"> </span><span lang="EN-US"> Getting around town in the tropical heat is<span style="color: red;"> </span>a challenge. Taxis can be hard to find. Bicycle-taxis abound, their seats clearly not designed for two wide-hipped westerners. Haggling for a reasonable price is an essential, if tiresome, part of dealing with private transport here. A <a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Penang">free city bus</a> does a circuit, stopping at many of the best tourist areas.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: red;"> </span><span lang="EN-US">I’m a sucker for revolving bars anywhere, so<span style="color: red;"> </span>I was happy to have a farewell drink at the top of the <a href="http://www.bayviewhotels.com/georgetown/index.cfm?id=CE09241E-93EF-0793-CC24AABF5AE6068E">Bayview Hotel</a>. It’s not one of those 360-degree places. I’d say it reaches about 295—the rest is blocked by nearby rooftops filled with exhaust pipes and service equipment. It seemed the perfect spot to view this intriguing, slightly flawed city.<span style="color: red;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> <b>FOOD</b>: Whenever I’m<span style="color: red;"> </span>stuck for tips about where to go in a city, I ask advice at the most expensive hotel, as they are used to the most demanding customers. The folks at the <a href="http://www.e-o-hotel.com/eoh/index.htm">Eastern & Oriental Hotel</a> had the right answers when we asked about the best nyonya restaurants (listed below). We especially liked the <i>loh bak,</i> a cinnamon-scented pork roll wrapped in tofu skin, and the <i>kerabu sayur rumi</i>, similar to Thai salad with sweet red chilies and <i>rumi</i>, a local green.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US"> is famous for its <b>night markets, </b>but we discovered that they are not all in fixed locations. There was one right outside our hotel that disappeared one night. The largest we saw was on Jalan Macalister near Lorong Abu Siti (click <span style="color: red;">xxx</span> <span style="color: red;">to see video</span> of this night market).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tips from another blogger <a href="http://www.houseofannie.com/penang-on-a-budget-part-1/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+HouseOfAnnie+%28House+of+Annie%29&utm_content=Google+Reader">HERE</a>.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.houseofannie.com/penang-on-a-budget-part-1/">http://www.houseofannie.com/penang-on-a-budget-part-1/</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.houseofannie.com/category/travels/penang/">http://www.houseofannie.com/category/travels/penang/</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:hyphenationzone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><img src="//img2.blogblog.com/img/video_object.png" style="background-color: #b2b2b2; " class="BLOGGER-object-element tr_noresize tr_placeholder" id="ieooui" data-original-id="ieooui" /> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Tabla normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">MALACCA</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://images.google.com.mx/images?hl=es&source=hp&q=Malacca&btnG=Buscar+im%25C3%25A1genes&gbv=2&aq=f&oq=">Malacca</a> is a charming town, and it knows it. Like </span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US">, it was recently chosen as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Old buildings are being spruced up, but you can sense the developers ready to pounce. It’s a good time to visit.<span style="color: red;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Malacca’s a welcoming place, easy to get around on foot. There are enough ‘things to do’ here to pass a few pleasant days. We rode up in the <b>Menara Tamingsari</b>, a ride like a horizontal ferris wheel that provides a spinning view of the city and its recent growth. There’s a canal boat ride, a lively<span style="color: red;"> </span>night market<span style="color: red;"> </span>in the old town (weekends only), well preserved colonial architecture, and richly decorated Chinese temples, and the <a href="http://www.stonecoastphotography.com/gallery/6070302_Fyb9U/6/380716085_ywpJC/Medium">last remaining store</a> where you can buy shoes for your bound feet. And how could you resist a place that has a funky ethnographic museum called <a href="http://images.google.com.mx/images?gbv=2&hl=es&sa=1&q=%25E2%2580%2598The+Museum+of+Enduring+Beauty%25E2%2580%2599&btnG=Buscar+im%25C3%25A1genes&aq=f&oq=&start=0"><span style="color: black;">‘The Museum of Enduring Beauty’</span></a>? </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> Malacca vies with </span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US"> as the<span style="color: red;"> </span><u>Nyonya</u> cuisine capital of </span><span lang="EN-US">Malaysia</span><span lang="EN-US">. We saw one place offering an‘Elvis Presley Banana Peanut Sandwich’, so we know the culinary sepctrum goes beyond the traditional. Local treats included fish head curry, chicken and rice balls (Malaysian comfort food) and <i>cendol</i>, (pronounced “CHEN-dahl)<span style="color: red;"> </span>a shaved ice dessert sweetened with Malaysia’s famed palm sugar (“the best in Asia,” insisted Annie, our food maven from Kuching)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: red;"></span></b><span lang="EN-US">Another favorite Malaysian food discovery was <i>dodol</i>, a taffy-like candy made from palm sugar. I loved the name, which sounds like a prescription narcotic. The texture is one of those things that makes you think about texture—unlike any you’ve had before, melty, chewy, creamy, sticky, and sweet. Malacca is famous for it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /><span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:hyphenationzone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><img src="//img2.blogblog.com/img/video_object.png" style="background-color: #b2b2b2; " class="BLOGGER-object-element tr_noresize tr_placeholder" id="ieooui" data-original-id="ieooui" /> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Tabla normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-weight: bold;">SLEEP / EAT</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span></u></b><b><u><span lang="EN-US"></span></u></b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We enjoyed our stay at the <a href="http://www.agoda.es/asia/malaysia/penang/sunway_hotel_seberang_jaya.html">Sunway Hotel</a> near the Komtar bldg. There was a great night market just outside the door.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> <a href="http://www.broadwaybudgethotel.com/">www.broadwaybudgethotel.com</a> </span><span lang="EN-US">is a simple, clean, inexpensive place, in a great location near to Little India, and some of the most charming streets in </span><span lang="EN-US">Penang</span><span lang="EN-US">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.e-o-hotel.com/eoh/index.htm">Eastern & Oriental Hotel</a>-- Take a look, have a drink at the bar, or check out </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">their buffet dinner. Rooms $$$</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US">Mama’s Nyonya Restaurant</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (31 Lorong Abu Siti)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><span lang="EN-US">Nyonya Breeze</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (50 Lorong Abu Siti) had an extensive menuof fresh, delicious local cuisine in a casual setting. Closed Tuesdays.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"></span><b><u><span lang="EN-US">Malacca</span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We stayed at the <a href="http://www.hotelpuri.com/">Hotel Puri,</a> which has a lovely ground floor. The rooms are OK, if small. The staff was not very friendly (rare in </span><span lang="EN-US">SE Asia</span><span lang="EN-US">). Good location.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Next time I’ll check out the Heereen House (<a href="http://www.heereenhouse.com/">www.heereenhouse.com</a>)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The <b>Ole Sayang restaurant</b> is in a part of town called Melaka Raya (198-199 Taman Melaka Raya, tel. 283-1966, closed Wed.). There’s a huge shopping mall, and just beyond, lots of restaurants. This one came recommended by several locals, and did not disappoint. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> I also recommend <b>Nancy’s Kitchen</b> (15 Jin Hang Lekir) for its homey Nyona food and atmosphere.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><b><span lang="EN-US">MISC. TRAVEL INFORMATION</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> <a href="http://www.airasia.com/">Air Asia</a> has flights all over the region. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> <a href="http://www.fireflyz.com.my/">www.fireflyz.com.my</a> has flights between points in </span><span lang="EN-US">Malaysia</span><span lang="EN-US">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> <a href="http://my.countrysearch.tradekey.com/palm-oil.htm">http://my.countrysearch.tradekey.com/palm-oil.htm</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">for economic information about </span><span lang="EN-US">Malaysia</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> ‘House of Annie’ food blog: <a href="http://chezannies.blogspot.com/">http://chezannies.blogspot.com/</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> Malaysia</span><span lang="EN-US"> travel guide <a href="http://www.kuching-hotels.com/travel-guide.htm">http://www.kuching-hotels.com/travel-guide.htm</a></span></div>
The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-53553706849346606332011-01-05T12:02:00.005-06:002011-05-19T13:51:59.635-05:00ECUADOR (December 2010)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:hyphenationzone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Tabla normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">ECUADOR</span></b><b style=""><span lang="EN-US"> (and Bogotá) -- December 2010</span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span style="" lang="ES-MX">BOGOTÁ</span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><span style="" lang="ES-MX"></span></b><span lang="EN-US">Bogotá seems to have overcome its reptuation as drug crime ridden </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">capital of </span><span lang="EN-US">Latin America</span><span lang="EN-US">.<span style=""> </span>There are lots of cops in the more touristy areas, but in between are miles of dreary low-rise concrete buildings. <span style=""> </span>Although it was rainy and gray for our entire 3-day visit, I doubt this is a city that qualifies as beautiful even in full sun. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">But is has a lively feel, spiced with Caribbean influences like cumbia music wafting out of storefronts, or<span style=""> </span>the waitress who asks, “¿Que quieres, mi cielo?” </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The centro histórico is <b style=""><a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&source=imghp&biw=1249&bih=600&q=La+Calendaria+bogota&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=">La Calendaria</a></b> which has an appealing mix of colonial and art deco architecure, and some top-class museums (don’t miss the Museo de Oro and and Botero Museum—even if you think you don’t like Botero). The whole zone was given a facelift in June 2011, with facades of many older buildings freshly painted in pastel colors.<span style=""> </span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="" lang="ES-MX"> <a href="http://www.vivatravelguides.com/south-america/colombia/bogota/la-candelaria/la-candelaria-restaurants/el-bolon-verde/">Bolón de Verde</a>, jazz club/restaurant.<span style=""> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">Totally hip little place up the hill in La Calendaria. <span style=""> </span>Just off the Plazoleta de El Chorro de Quevedo.<span style=""> </span>The area all around</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">here is fun at night.<span style=""> </span>There’s a great pastry shop on the plaza.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">‘Septimazo’is a bustling Friday night street fair in the centro. Fun for people watching.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> </span><b style=""><span style=""><br /></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><span style="">QUITO</span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g294308-d1581562-Reviews-Hostal_Quito_Cultural-Quito.html">Hostal Quito Cultural</a>, (Calle Flores N4-160 y Chile, tel. 2288-084).<span style=""> </span>Be sure to talk to the owner Alicia Vega, who is friendly and helpful. <span style=""> </span>We loved this place. A bargain at $30 a night with breakfast.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> A bit more upscale, <b style="">Hotel Quito</b>, <a href="http://www.hotelquito.com/">http://www.hotelquito.com/</a> is a remodelled 60’s hotel/spa on a hill with great views.<span style=""> </span>The rooftop restaurant was surprisingly good and a bargain as well.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span style="">Café Mosaico</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (Manuel Samaniego N8-95 y Antepara, Itchimbía, tel. 2542-871), has great views of the city, excellent coffee and Greek food which we did not try, but looked promising.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">La </span></b><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">Compania</span></b><b style=""><span lang="EN-US"> </span></b><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">Church</span></b><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">—</span></b><span lang="EN-US">don’t miss this baroque extravaganza.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span style="">Fuente de Vida Spa</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (Vizcaya E 13-40 y Pontevedra, Esquina 9-1/2, Barrio La Floresta) offers all sorts of ‘detoxification’ therapies. <span style=""> </span>We stumbled upon this place and I sat for a half hour with my feet in warm water as a little plugged-in device sucked the impurities in my body out through my toes.<span style=""> </span>Worth the $15.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">CUENCA</span></b><b style=""><span lang="EN-US"></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><span lang="EN-US"></span></b><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US"> is a delightful town for just walking around and enjoying the architecure—a mix of everything from the last few centuries.<span style=""> </span>It’s a quiet place without major tourist highlights.<span style=""> </span>Friday seems to be the ‘big night out’, but otherwise the town square is fairly lifeless at night.<span style=""> </span>The churches are lit up at night (and often full—it’s a very Catholic town).<span style=""> </span>Check out the corner of Bolivar & Borrero at night, too—lovely architecure.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">River walk—the river is clean and the grassy banks are great for hanging out or a picnic lunch.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Museums—If you like old pottery, the <b style="">Museo de Culturas Aborigenes</b> is worth a visit.<span style=""> </span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">We found the old Convento de las Conceptas a bit dull—too many saints and virgins.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><span style="">Instituto Nacional de Patrimonio Cultural</span></b><span style="">,<span style=""> </span>Benigno Malo 6-40—go inside to see the murals in back.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Azogues,<span style=""> </span>This town was a day trip mentioned in our guidebook (Footprint) for its Saturday market, which wasn’t so different from the one in </span><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US">.<span style=""> </span>The town is a big concrete pile, but the Bar El Che (Bolivar & Tenemaza) was worth a visit—a temple to Che Guevara.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">Parque Nacional Cajas</span></b><span lang="EN-US">,<span style=""> </span><a href="http://www.etapa.com.ec/">www.etapa.com.ec</a> is not far from </span><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US">.<span style=""> </span>We only saw it on the bus ride to </span><span lang="EN-US">Guayaquil</span><span lang="EN-US">, but it looked lovely.<span style=""> </span>Some tourists got off the bus there, so I imagine any of the buses going to </span><span lang="EN-US">Guayaquil</span><span lang="EN-US"> can drop you off for a day of hiking. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Baños, a town with </span><span lang="EN-US">hot springs</span><span lang="EN-US"> was a 30-minute local bus ride away. We were disappointed with the big motel-like setting and the not-so-hot water. </span></p> <p style="font-weight: bold;" class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">FOOD AND LODGING</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">Tiesto’s</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, Juan Jaramillo 7-34— this very popular restaurant serves local cuisine with flair.<span style=""> </span>The giant shrimp were fantastic.<a href="http://www.tiestosrestaurante.com/"> http://www.tiestosrestaurante.com/</a></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">Al Toque</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (at the corner of Benigno Malo & Simon Bolivar on the main plaza). Pastries and gelato.<span style=""> </span>We went back three times for the chocolate/caramel/banana tart!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">Café Eucalyptus</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, (Gran </span><span lang="EN-US">Colombia</span><span lang="EN-US"> 9-41) is a cozy place for a drink.<span style=""> </span>It seems to be popular with the ex-pat crowd.<span style=""> </span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span style="">Café Austria</span></b><span style="">, (Benigno Malo 5-99 at Juan Jaramillo) excellent coffee.<span style=""> </span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Local markets</span>—there are 3 in town, worth visiting to see local produce and to eat at the food stalls.<span style=""> </span>Roast pig and something called ‘encebollada’ (a fish dish) are the highlights here.<span style=""> </span>Don’t miss the <span style="font-weight: bold;">chocolate</span>, sold in blocks or flat blobs, for cooking—it’s incredible.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Chinese restaurant, 11-26 Borrero near Lamar.<span style=""> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">The Cantonese food here was surprisingly good, although we did not try the combination that the couple at the next table seemed to be enjoying—mayonaise and ketchup over fried rice, accompanied with orange soda.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><b style=""><span style="">Hostal Majestic</span></b><span style="">, Luis Cordero 11-29 (between Lamar & Sangurima, tel. </span><span lang="EN-US">(07) 284-3502) has old world charm and huge rooms for $42.<span style=""> </span>After checking out about a dozen places in this price range, it was definitely the best.<span style=""> </span><a href="http://www.cuencacultural.com/h_majestic.htm">http://www.cuencacultural.com/h_majestic.htm</a></span></p> <p style="font-weight: bold;" class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> </span></p><p style="font-weight: bold;" class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">MISC.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/503109">http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/503109</a> Calvin Trillin article on Cuenca<br /><br />I found this on some blog, but not in time to try it--”</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma; color: black;" lang="EN-US">Toward the end of my Spanish language school visit in 2005, I'd had the good fortune to meet Berta Vintimilla, who, along with her sister Patricia, runs what is considered the premier upmarket restaurant in Cuenca, <u>Villa Rosa”</u></span><span lang="EN-US"><br /><a href="http://www.cuencahighlife.com/default.aspx"><br />http://www.cuencahighlife.com/default.aspx</a> Cuenca ex-pat website</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><span style=""> </span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><span lang="EN-US">GUAYAQUIL</span></b><b style=""><span lang="EN-US"></span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The bus ride from </span><span lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span lang="EN-US"> to </span><span lang="EN-US">Guayaquil</span><span lang="EN-US"> (4-5 hours) takes you through some spectacular mountains before you reach the steamy jungle. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"></span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman";" lang="EN-US">Hotel Doral, <a href="http://www.hdoral.com/">http://www.hdoral.com/</a> is centrally located and perfectly fine, if no bargain at $65 compared with prices in </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman";" lang="EN-US">Quito</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman";" lang="EN-US"> and </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman";" lang="EN-US">Cuenca</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman";" lang="EN-US">.</span>Cuenca<br /></p>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-4583062887795239482010-12-21T16:37:00.004-06:002010-12-29T09:45:43.178-06:00BOGOTA'S MUSEUM OF GOLDHere are some photos from Bogota's magnificent <a href="http://www.banrep.gov.co/museo/esp/home.htm"><span style="font-style: italic;">Museo do Oro</span></a>:<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" border-collapse: collapse; font-family:Tahoma, sans-serif;font-size:small;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9067845@N06/sets/72157625699099092/" target="_blank" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 204); ">http://www.flickr.com/photos/<wbr>9067845@N06/sets/<wbr>72157625699099092/</a></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Tahoma, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Tahoma, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-29422612634135981592010-09-23T10:55:00.001-05:002010-09-23T10:56:39.353-05:00QUOTE FOR TODAY<span style="font-weight: bold;">"Travel is good for many things, not the least of which is testing your national values against those of other countries."</span><br /><br />(from Timothy Egan's <a href="http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/22/curse-of-the-scorned-class/?hp">editorial in the NYTimes</a>)The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-52164016208710557422010-06-28T17:41:00.018-05:002011-01-11T16:02:26.557-06:00MALAYSIA (Part 2): KUCHING, BORNEO<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifqddhF7hRe4Txx6KL6NG-Y6jQBXIjagxHgaNuqCfWNYczQz-WSrJEYRdMLClxQBXqN_quSEiTRnTfWEXMVNlkFkFYFMzIXtqkFhJCGevBBKRVgUfXKNkilT2p8M7_Uc6MJGPTEnXm80/s1600/DSCN1738.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifqddhF7hRe4Txx6KL6NG-Y6jQBXIjagxHgaNuqCfWNYczQz-WSrJEYRdMLClxQBXqN_quSEiTRnTfWEXMVNlkFkFYFMzIXtqkFhJCGevBBKRVgUfXKNkilT2p8M7_Uc6MJGPTEnXm80/s200/DSCN1738.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5488193231909959650" border="0" /></a><br />I had a toothache on the flight from Kuala Lumpur to Kuching, the capital of Malaysian Borneo, and by the time we landedI needed a dentist. We sped off in a cab to Dr. Roki’s clinic which was about to close for the weekend. Any thoughts of cannibals and wild jungle animals were quickly dispelled by the drab new strip malls and walled residential compounds that spread far out for miles from the old center of town. You can still find Indian spice traders and vendors of local handicrafts in the old part of town by the riverfront, but the new world has elbowed its way in, as KFC franchises and bulky new hotels along the riverside promenade attest.<br /><br />The area around <a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&source=imghp&q=Carpenter+Street+kuching&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=">Carpenter Street</a> is the most attractive part of the old town, best for exploring on foot. Old shop houses line the streets, providing shaded arcades for passing shoppers, who are buying everything from food and spices to dishes, gowns and tires. We snacked on dim sum, curried meat patties, and rich Sarawak coffee as we rambled through the neighborhood.<br /><br />After exploring the downtown streets we crossed the river in a small wooden commuter boat, and found an old area of colorful wooden houses built on stilts, gardens lush with banana and palm trees, and surprised, but welcoming residents. It seems that few tourists cross to the far side of the river.<br /><br />The city has enough sights to keep you busy for a few days (long enough to add a few extra meals).The <b><a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=Sarawak+Museum+kuching&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=">Sarawak Museum</a></b> has a small but excellent collection of tribal arts, featuring flamboyant carved doorways, finely woven baskets and mats and replicas of traditional houses. The <b><a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=Textile+Museum+kuching&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=">Textile Museum</a></b> has an collection of native textile arts, and also explains some of the culutral contexts (like weddings) for which these elaborate textiles were made. Air conditioning enhances the art in both places.<br /><br />A row of colonial-era buildings facing the river is filled with shops selling local handicrafts and trinkets. Baskets, bronzes, bamboo furniture, t-shirts and key chains all glorify the indigenous tribes of Borneo. But the most beautiful handmade item I saw was the <a href="http://chezannies.blogspot.com/2009/09/foodbuzz-24-24-24-making-of-sarawak.html"><b>sarawak cake</b></a>, a colorful, mosaic-like loaf, whose densely layered designs suggest embroidery or inlaid wood. A free sample test of the dense, sugary cake was enough for me—I just wanted to buy one and wear it.<br /><br />Kuching is noted for its food, and it lived up to its reputation. Spices are everywhere: cinnamon, coriander,cardamom, anise, saffron, turmeric, ginger, cumin, nutmeg, poppyseeds and peppercorns are easily found among the myriad other exoticofferings. There isn’t a lot of street food here (ice cream served in a hamburger bun was the most unusual). Instead vendors have been gathered into hawker stalls, where we ate great local cuisine at reasonable prices. This is where you’ll find a traditional bowl of laksa, a coconut-rich noodle soup with tamarind, shrimp paste and fresh herbs, that is one of the local specialties.<br /><br />While doing research for this trip, we met Annie and Nate through their great food blog. They’d just moved to Kuching a few weeks before our arrival. Annie was born in Malaysia, but for the past 15 years has lived in California, where she married Nate and had two beautiful children. They took us on a jaunt to the weekend market, a street sprawling with vendors of vegetables, meat, candies, sneakers, plants, and of course, the exotic fruits common to Borneo.<br /><br />Annie knew her stuff, pointing out local produce, and haggling with the merchants in Malay (one of 5 languages she speaks). With her guidance, I had my first real taste of fresh <a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=durian+fruit&aq=1&aqi=g10&aql=&oq=durian&gs_rfai="><b>durian</b></a>, that spiky orb of forbidden fruit (it is not allowed on airplanes and some hotels and public buildings) whose pulpy pellets emit a creamy, flowery, cheesey taste unlike anything I’d eaten before. It has a short season and is highly prized by locals. When she saw them, Annie’s eyes grew wide with a delight that could only have been learned in childhood.<br /><br />I had experienced the flavor of durian in ice cream and cakes in Thailand, but the real fruit is another thing altogether. I didn’t notice the strong, repellent odor I’d heard so much about, but the sensation in my mouth--taste, texture, delayed overtones of flavor—was one of the strangest culinary experiences I’ve had. I popped a thumb-sized node of durian into my mouth and felt a brief electric jolt go through my body. It was at once intoxicatingly aromatic and shockingly repugnant. The texture was a big surprise, at once familiar and completely new, very creamy, like warm fois gras, melted marshmallows, a sticky, fruity pudding quivering between pleasure and regret. I can’t wait to try it again.<br /><br /><br />************************************************<br /><br />TRAVEL INFORMATION<br /><br /><a href="http://www.airasia.com/">Air Asia </a>has flights all over the region.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.fireflyz.com.my/">www.fireflyz.com.my</a> has flights between points in Malaysia.<br /><br /><a href="http://my.countrysearch.tradekey.com/palm-oil.htm">http://my.countrysearch.tradekey.com/palm-oil.htm</a><br />for economic information about Malaysia<br /><br />‘House of Annie’ food blog: <a href="http://chezannies.blogspot.com/">http://chezannies.blogspot.com/</a><br /><br />Malaysia travel guide<a href="http://www.kuching-hotels.com/travel-guide.htm"> </a><a href="http://www.kuching-hotels.com/travel-guide.htm">http://www.kuching-hotels.com/travel-guide.htm</a><br /><br /><br /><div>KUCHING TIPS<br /><br />The Riverfront Hotel is in an old converted house—simple and inexpensive, good location. Look on google for information (no website at time of writing).<br /><br />The <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaurant_Review-g298309-d1156781-Reviews-Top_Spot_Food_Court-Kuching_Sarawak.html">Top Spot Food Court</a> is a casual open-air place offering a vast array of fresh seafood, cooked to order.<br /></div>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2274819827457731616.post-78456463435141983752010-06-14T23:09:00.009-05:002012-07-16T17:08:59.011-05:00CAIRO: GUT REACTIONS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi57a23naIuWYvDDtP_EWnbd5rYaHVEo3LpBI9tg5FtGy3mqIP9KZLQK52ygMrcyL1A_-twnjS5aPl8eCs17NOGiKvLnIXduJ_Y5pi3JtUuUM6lFO4mojIDqvzS5x9A_NZ3kKdR_Vlv1J8/s1600/DSCN4717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi57a23naIuWYvDDtP_EWnbd5rYaHVEo3LpBI9tg5FtGy3mqIP9KZLQK52ygMrcyL1A_-twnjS5aPl8eCs17NOGiKvLnIXduJ_Y5pi3JtUuUM6lFO4mojIDqvzS5x9A_NZ3kKdR_Vlv1J8/s400/DSCN4717.JPG" style="height: 267px; width: 519px;" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrn6J0KbqmKGnoFmfYnF-iVMmU8FYi_ScM8PyjVsDuw_pAQkV5fpHKOwp36r0ulFYt3CqteEsXZN-SIdiL4CV7_jYt2CmfP122W9juU7kCkNWgg16P9fUDZ-7F6-iMB3i1DwiXTeQ-y4/s1600/DSCN4697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrn6J0KbqmKGnoFmfYnF-iVMmU8FYi_ScM8PyjVsDuw_pAQkV5fpHKOwp36r0ulFYt3CqteEsXZN-SIdiL4CV7_jYt2CmfP122W9juU7kCkNWgg16P9fUDZ-7F6-iMB3i1DwiXTeQ-y4/s320/DSCN4697.JPG" style="height: 271px; width: 200px;" /></a></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"> </span>We’d been out in the glaring sun for hours, exploring the back streets of Cairo, when we reached the remnants of the old city walls. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span">In the shadow of the massive mud-brick fortifications an animal market was winding down. Men in desert-colored robes tended a few tired looking donkeys and horses. Cabbage leaves and bruised tomatoes lay on the ground nearby, the last traces of a morning vegetable market. Passing through a wide gap where the old gates once stood, we found ourselves in the abattoir, Cairo’s meat slaughtering district.</span></span></span></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFR21DmBX1IFWOu5Uhi56ZUG2tMN9NcHtgHpLY1kMi7eK3OdcpS2sBbUUOiYeJRY0X5HATjSo-pXOMmdymzXeQInD5nPPhcQckle6i4YjOSSETlDH5PUjJ8yGKkWpe1yDJQRYHG4jh4ug/s1600/DSCN4699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFR21DmBX1IFWOu5Uhi56ZUG2tMN9NcHtgHpLY1kMi7eK3OdcpS2sBbUUOiYeJRY0X5HATjSo-pXOMmdymzXeQInD5nPPhcQckle6i4YjOSSETlDH5PUjJ8yGKkWpe1yDJQRYHG4jh4ug/s320/DSCN4699.JPG" /></a></span></div>
</div>
</div>
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><br /></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;">
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFR21DmBX1IFWOu5Uhi56ZUG2tMN9NcHtgHpLY1kMi7eK3OdcpS2sBbUUOiYeJRY0X5HATjSo-pXOMmdymzXeQInD5nPPhcQckle6i4YjOSSETlDH5PUjJ8yGKkWpe1yDJQRYHG4jh4ug/s1600/DSCN4699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix8nZM2RKtai3dROuK3spsBHRhnjpCkPMkCDHLXSWZwnJsxOPUH3F3jtnTJGlX4Ob8K6tqD5uxxbQLfyMVVOSTLtsjtHOHfJuZVd7v-LU4-XG9ppd46H8uk1xgDE7JkfP6QbZb9PZrAH0/s1600/DSCN3940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix8nZM2RKtai3dROuK3spsBHRhnjpCkPMkCDHLXSWZwnJsxOPUH3F3jtnTJGlX4Ob8K6tqD5uxxbQLfyMVVOSTLtsjtHOHfJuZVd7v-LU4-XG9ppd46H8uk1xgDE7JkfP6QbZb9PZrAH0/s320/DSCN3940.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> Dark skinned workers with blood stained aprons lifted entire cows from open trucks. Row of sheeps' heads, impaled on sharp metal spikes, decorated wooden tables laden with lamb shanks, recently shorn. Glistening strands of something white—like skeins of wool dipped in rubber--hung in clumps everywhere. Tendons? Cartilege? Intestines? I was never quite sure, but it was nothing I'd seen at the markets back home. </span></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span">A donkey cart passed, piled high with a cargo of fresh viscera. The sharp mid-day sun glinted off the shiny surface of the mound of organs, creating an impression they were still pulsing. Chopping blocks made from huge tree trunks, along with hundreds of knives, cleavers, scrapers and saws were on sale nearby. The sound of metal whacking against wood provided a background rhythm, its beat irregular.</span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifChXiIv6PHINGjrH3qc_7xKc-8ogs534jLc3LwLYIfa4jPkc_ihH_UAaU-iUrqTzcPrjlojPBOD4-A4nU_PZxdAjAzfXepF8i-R9pERacDgBLlbRsiDLZvdpDi5EQLE0kDetR-CNKzE8/s1600/DSCN4175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifChXiIv6PHINGjrH3qc_7xKc-8ogs534jLc3LwLYIfa4jPkc_ihH_UAaU-iUrqTzcPrjlojPBOD4-A4nU_PZxdAjAzfXepF8i-R9pERacDgBLlbRsiDLZvdpDi5EQLE0kDetR-CNKzE8/s320/DSCN4175.JPG" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> Revolted but fascinated, I</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">felt far away from the plastic wrapped beefsteaks of an American supermarke</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">t</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">.</span></i></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> We’d seen lots of animals in Cairo—a flock of sheep around the corner from the Nile Hilton, a few scraggly goats passing by the mosque of Ibn Tulun, a lone camel tethered near the busy Nasser metro stop. The bloody, raw images of slaughtered meat seemed a natural part of this teeming metropolis, where the line between rural village and cosmopolitan city is blurred.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFBBxRSEhpXuTp_2ONJalUKhRndajWeC3sp5jBnivETF5bKXA0q5oDF4vWtozNFQoHPtSPFqOuUsbb0Vr4sIRqi_E0kVAwSFsaMgthtKfwttw0JDWuHwQvO8NUskJeq-6fwRdS7QIo8k/s1600/DSCN4530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFBBxRSEhpXuTp_2ONJalUKhRndajWeC3sp5jBnivETF5bKXA0q5oDF4vWtozNFQoHPtSPFqOuUsbb0Vr4sIRqi_E0kVAwSFsaMgthtKfwttw0JDWuHwQvO8NUskJeq-6fwRdS7QIo8k/s320/DSCN4530.JPG" /></a></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> Far from our hotel--totally lost in fact--we finally waved down a cab. Exhausted by our long walk and the confrontation with so many carcasses, we exchanged <i>salaams</i> with our driver and settled into the back seat of the taxi to relax. Suddenly a familiar voice rang out from the radio. “R-E-S-P-E-C-T, find out what it means to me” <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span">It was Aretha, the Queen of Soul, in Cairo! As surprising as it was welcome, it made the ache in my legs disappear. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span">“Whip it to me!” The voice soared higher, but reached deeper, down into the gut, the viscera, where the true meaning of the song exists. As we sped by the last of the slaughtered animals</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span">, Aretha's raw gospel sound wafted out the window, like a farewell paean. “Sock it to me, sock it to me!”</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbobbDOj4-b04PGcLOaLTHYiJ3m1H_AMTCvetGCnKe7szXytCBqR_0HRlwK6mTYMrKKpP_ZIRNIkEkLuZ2RoSjUrHeehGE9LAjaQHn_LZQ8EeVLGxlWcu-h6uODkg1OKVPhCjeeGJKLm8/s1600/DSCN4279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbobbDOj4-b04PGcLOaLTHYiJ3m1H_AMTCvetGCnKe7szXytCBqR_0HRlwK6mTYMrKKpP_ZIRNIkEkLuZ2RoSjUrHeehGE9LAjaQHn_LZQ8EeVLGxlWcu-h6uODkg1OKVPhCjeeGJKLm8/s400/DSCN4279.JPG" style="height: 279px; width: 518px;" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">--Jim Johnston, May 2010</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="margin: 0pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8eMsWUGRHcOMPfn1miCNNi5ffuBYIjDV8QGeN-f14mM79dSRpIuUoN-X3VfkR8jK9xl3V2f21cbD0JpJ31HinqaXV4vLLVhTFQiK1p-KsSV0dD4Ni5D0a0PfsC3WB5xiXcJ2gIi2Dj8/s1600/DSCN4046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8eMsWUGRHcOMPfn1miCNNi5ffuBYIjDV8QGeN-f14mM79dSRpIuUoN-X3VfkR8jK9xl3V2f21cbD0JpJ31HinqaXV4vLLVhTFQiK1p-KsSV0dD4Ni5D0a0PfsC3WB5xiXcJ2gIi2Dj8/s320/DSCN4046.JPG" style="height: 560px; width: 462px;" /></a></div>
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8fRgieTt_M7keKrfjJuwiwbC2yjcx_P2TDGe7CQIk84MLcobKe9vwhRrMjyf4XUYcNYdI4oM-pk0J6KTwXUKq6bMG5a5ypmB3IXBhpDXUF8w5JzUYXDgZhyo6vjHPPZqrpAoZV8O7x0/s1600/aretha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8fRgieTt_M7keKrfjJuwiwbC2yjcx_P2TDGe7CQIk84MLcobKe9vwhRrMjyf4XUYcNYdI4oM-pk0J6KTwXUKq6bMG5a5ypmB3IXBhpDXUF8w5JzUYXDgZhyo6vjHPPZqrpAoZV8O7x0/s200/aretha.jpg" style="height: 274px; width: 206px;" /></a><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Aretha Franklin at Obama's inauguration</span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Click <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dev-r9xkZU&feature=related">HERE </a>for more Aretha</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;"><br /></span></span></div>The Authorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06026728827634519771noreply@blogger.com2